it would turn out. If the leaves of it were dark green it would form a splendid mass, but they are somewhat grayish-a bad tint to set off any shade of red. Plumbago Larpente is now on a par with the last, but has only been in good bloom since the beginning of October, when it ceased growing. Poor soil on a dry bottom, and old plants of it, will make this a very different thing from what some wise heads have in their haste anticipated. Mr. Page, gardener to Lady Harland, in this neighbourhood, called here for the first time as I was taking these notes, and he was astonished to see our principal bed of it so beautifully in bloom, and as he is fresh from the "London boards," as they say of other clever people, I thought this a good compliment; but of course the poor soil had done it all, and next time it shall be poorer still. Ageratum mexicanum is another plant that is now as gay as ever, but it does not arrange well in any systematic combination of colours, and yet is too bright for a neutral bed, being a kind of blackish gray. It does better as a broad band enclosing a mass of white or scarlet in a circular bed, but best of all by itself at a distance from the walks, in some recess where it is backed by the dark green foliage of shrubs, and for that kind of effect at a distance from the eye we have none to equal it. These are the principal miscellaneous plants that have continued so late in bloom.

Petunias, verbenas, calceolarias, and geraniumns of sorts, will furnish matter for a separate letter, as their numbers are almost endless, and as I never had the greater part of them so fine as they were this autumn, I can hardly trust myself to make a beginning upon them, for fear that I should take up too much room and make the subject tiresome to the reader. Of the Calceolarias, I shall only say that Mr. Fish has hit upon the very best of the whole family, the Kentish Hero, for a bed, the colour being a reddish brown. It is just on the verge of neutrality, but with two other shades rising into red orange, and with the clear yellows, will form one of the most splendid shaded yellow beds that can be formed. It only propagates freely in the spring, not but that it will root from a few pieces at the bottom of the plant in the autumn, but it would be downright extravagance to meddle with it then, as from every autumnal cutting, if left on, the plant will make ten in March, if the plant is put into a gentle forcing at the beginning of February.

Speaking of shaded beds, I may as well say that this style of planting single flower beds is becoming more fashionable every season, and in some few instances the shading system may be adopted with marked effect in a group of beds nigh to each other; but it is apart from the great body of the flower garden, where a bed or a small group of three beds would come in to heighten the effect of some other object, that this style can be carried out to most advantage. Flower garden plants have become so numerous in varieties, that it was found impossible to find room where to plant even the best varieties, and this gave rise to a system that is very effective in a few instances, which is to plant at least three shades of the same colour to answer for one bed, and among the verbenas as many as five tints, or shades, of one colour may be put into one bed, and make it richer than any one of the five put by itself; but the sorts that will thus harmonise cannot very well be learned from books, because in different soils and situations the plants grow very differently as to height and strength; but to have the best effect, the plants should be so uniform in all their parts as to appear

out.

to be one kind, and that producing the various tints which makes the bed so much admired. Shading is different from this, and it is among the varieties of the scarlet geranium that it can be easiest pointed Of them we have dark scarlet, orange scarlet, a shade between scarlet and pink (compactum aud judi), then rose, peach, salmon. lilac, French white, and white. Yes, a white variety of the horse-shoe as old as the hills, but it is not much to boast of. Now, a shaded circular bed is formed out of such tints in the way ladies work Berlin wool, or a border along-side of a walk planted with a row of each tint, from the white to the dark scarlet, and the reverse. D. BEATON.

GREENHOUSE AND WINDOW
GARDENING.

REPOTTING PLANTS FROM THE CLUMP OR BORDER FOR SETTING IN THE GREENHOUSE OR WINDOW.—In no department of gardening have greater changes been effected, within these fifteen years, than in the mode of decorating and furnishing the flower-garden Plants that formerly were kept as single, or duplicate miserable specimens, cramped up in pots, duly set in house or pit during winter, and then placed to rusticate in some shady corner during the summer, presenting occasionally a few scattered flowers as a reward to the cultivator, have been transferred to the open clump or border, in numbers beyond all calculation, and there flourish with a luxuriance, and bloom with a profuseness, never previously wit nessed when grown in pots for windows and conservatories. It is said that "evils never come singly;" let us rejoice that the same may be predicated of good, as one improvement effected soon paves the way for another. The turning out of geraniums, calceolarias, and heliotropes, &c., not only greatly improved the flower-garden, but the changed aspect which the plants presented gave rise to that combination of observation, reflection, and experiment, which jointly issued in a greatly-improved system of pot cultivation. The cheapness with which many other plants may be procured has brought them within the reach of many, who otherwise must have been content (without envy, for that is the product of little-mindedness) to look at and admire them in the gardens of others. Only let the love of flowers become much more extended, and that cheapness in money value will soon be in proportion to the greatness of the demand. Talk of -nay, what is better, commence-teaching tropical orchid-growing to the many, and can there be any reason why these hardier plants should not be brought within the reach of the working millions? In speaking on this subject with a nurseryman the other day, who has great conveniences for rearing them, he emphatically stated that could a great demand be secured, they might be sent out, without ever being potted, but still nice little plants, at the rate of from a penny to twopence apiece! Of course, such plants would require more nursing than those raised at home, but nicely would they suit those who practice floriculture more from deference to the tastes and opinions of others than from any personal enthusiasm; and serviceable, too, they would be to many of our cottagers and amateurs who may have had misfortunes with their favourites during the winter. But, convinced as we are of the benefits and the practicability of cheapness were the sale only great, we would still encourage our readers to try and preserve some of their best old plants that they may have planted out

in the open ground, not only because their love for the pursuit will thus be increased, and their practical skill advanced, but also because such plants are often associated with times and circumstances, with hopes and disappointments, with joys and sorrows; combined with reminiscences of the graceful in beauty, and the manly, noble in character, around which it is often beneficial for memory to muse and linger.

"Well, now, what am I to do with such plants as I wish to preserve even at this late period?" says a sprightly companion, not long since, at my elbow; "I took up a few some time ago, according to Mr. Beaton's instructions, to whom we are all so much indebted, and I think I shall at least be a little more fortunate than Mr. Savage has been with your system of fumigating; and I would have taken up more, but they looked so nice and beautiful where they were, and even now full of bud and bloom, as they are in the very end of October, I would not touch them, only I know that frost is coming; and then there are those pretty scarlet geraniums, from which I have neglected to take even a cutting, though I should like to rival Harry Moore next summer; and there is that beautiful yellow calceolaria, given to me by sister Jane; those pretty, sweet, cherry-pie heliotropes, the gift of cousin Dick; and those fine plants of the Victoria and nosegay fancy geraniums, presented by -you will find out some of these days-all of which, and many more, I should wish to preserve, and in such a state that they might enliven my windows, or my little greenhouse, during winter and spring." Judging that this is not a solitary case, we will endeavour to do something to solve the difficulty. We will not even tantalise you by stating that you would have acted wisely to have reared some cuttings of your favourites in August and September, as a dozen of most of them might have been preserved all the winter in a six-inch pot, and would have made fine plants early next season, if you could have found the room to pot them off singly; for we have felt ourselves that it went a little against the grain when we could only receive a little instruction by being previously well lectured upon our shortcomings and deficiencies. But we shall allude to your plants out of doors-which we hope are as healthy as ours still are-as the only quarter from whence you can hope to preserve your stock, and get some assistance for enlivening the greenhouse during winter.

Leaving the scarlet geraniums for the present, we shall describe the proper treatment for all othersand especially of those which make root fibres plentifully-under two different circumstances, such as where there is nothing but window and greenhouse, and secondly, when, in addition to these, there is a frame or pot.

In the first place, then, it is of importance at this season of the year, when wet generally prevails, to choose dry weather for taking up your plants, as when the soil is wet large lumps are apt to fall from the ball, and take the roots along with them, while your success will depend upon the number of fibres you save. When great quantities are taken up, they are generally wheeled in barrow-loads to the potting shed; but in some cases, where a limited number are operated upon, and especially in the case of fine specimens, success, as respects each of which, is a inatter of importance, we would recommend taking the necessary light friable soil, and the intended pots well drained, to the plants; then lifting them carefully, by easing them all round with a spade, picking away any loose earth carefully, so as not to

injure the roots, and yet lessen the size of the ball; and placing the ball in a pot large enough for it. Do not jam together any fibres and roots outside of the ball, but arrange them nicely in layers among the fresh soil. Water well to settle the earth, and fill the roots with moisture. Set the plants in a rather shady place; prevent evaporation from the foliage in bright or dry weather by slight shading, and slight sprinklings of water over the foliage by the syringe, not setting them fully exposed in window or greenhouse until the root action has been again restored. By such means you may save your plants; but you must not lose heart if in many cases you are forced to cut off many or most of the flowers, if on others a portion of the leaves should fall, and in some the plants should bid you good-bye altogether.

In the second place, if you have a spare frame or pit, you may not only save your plants but the foliage, and the bloom and flower buds besides, if you only take the same trouble with the plants as we have recommended where no such conveniences exist. We say the same trouble, as it is best to eir on the safe side, though there is no necessity for being so very careful about the roots. as the plants will soon be put in a position to make fresh ones. The secret of your success here will depend not so much upon your ability to check evaporation from the leaves, by shading, and syringing, and keeping the plants close, as from having it in your power to plunge the pots in a mild bottom heat, and thus encourage the protrusion of fresh root-feeders to take the place of those that have unavoidably been snapped in raising the plants out of the ground. But mind, we do not wish you to treat the plants as if they were tropical gentlemen; if you do, you will run the risk of having them casting their leaves and throwing up spindly, instead of sturdy, shoots. We recommend the roots to be placed in a temperature of from 70° to 80°, for a certain time, for a definite purpose, but the heads of the plants must be kept cool during the whole period, by having a circulation of air among them right and day in mild weather. In a very sunny day, when you are forced to shade and syringe, still have the air on. As soon as the plants will stand the sun, with a slight sprinkle from the syringe, let the shading be dispensed with, and roots will sooner be formed. In the course of a fortnight or three weeks, if all has gone well, abundance of fresh roots will be found, which you can see by turning a plant out of its pot. They must not, however, even then be transferred at once to the dry shelf of a window or greenhouse, but the pots should be lifted by degrees out of the medium in which they are plunged, and be set for a few days previously on the surface of the bed. By such means we have taken up many and large plants in the end of October and the early part of November, that scarcely ever feel their moving, but there must be no carelessness or inattention to the minutiae of the affair. This simple matter of bottomheat, when righly applied and understood, will be seen to constitute the philosophy for many gardening operations, as respects hardy as well as tender plants.

But, then, how obtain it? Is there not a great trouble in getting fermenting matter, and turning it and sweetening it weeks beforehand? Oh, no; for all such matters we make very short work of it. You have got a cucumber or melon box, empty now, that was set upon a bed of dung-nothing better; while off the soil it will be useful for many purposes. Take out an opening a foot in depth of the decayed dung, place in the opening as much of fresh dung from the stable, or, what is better, a little more of the

sweepings of grass and leaves from the lawn; turn the bed thus from end to end, keeping the old manure at the top, and it will answer admirably. Without the old bed, a layer of grass, and then a layer of fresh leaves, would answer just as well, and better if blended together, and a layer of rotten dung, earth, or coalashes, put on the surface for pluuging in. For these temporary purposes, nothing beats green grass; it heats immediately, and then the heat is easily modified and retained by blending and covering with other substances, the object of the latter being to keep down everything like steam. Even where

there is no lawn, it must be a small garden indeed that could not furnish materials for such a bed in weeds, leaves, bean and pea haulm, and prunings. Shrubby calceolarias, and other hardy things, where no such conveniences exist, may be taken up with as much earth as will adhere to them, and set in dry soil in any place where they can have a fair portion of light and be safe from much frost; but then, of course, they could only be used for planting out again, and, therefore, do not come under our depart

meut.

SCARLET GERANIUMS.-Of these I can add nothing to what has been said about keeping them in garrets and hay-lofts, farther than that, if I could find room and light to set a few six-inch pots, each of which would hold a dozen of rooted cuttings, I would not trouble myself with taking many up ont of the borders. They are in a very different state from those grown in pots or boxes during the summer, which may be kept in such places with the greatest ease. In the one case, the wood is soft and succulent, and the roots are ruptured and broken; in the other, the stem is comparatively hard and wellripened, and the roots are umutilated. To approach Harry Moore next season, from plants still growing in the open ground, you must lose no time in setting your plants into something like a similar position to his now, and that, we believe, you can only accomplish by giving them bottom-heat, as we have advised for other things. Fine single specimens may be potted unmutilated, but, for all the smaller ones, the stems may be reduced, cutting back to where it is somewhat firm, and then, where new roots are formed, you may remove them to their quarters for the winter, just where they can have a little light, and be preserved from severe frost. When once the buds begin to break in spring, there will be roots ready to support them, and thus they will answer well for pots or boxes. R. FISH.

HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT.

EXOTIC ORCHIDACEÆ.

CISTERN. In our last we mentioned this useful auxiliary; it is almost indispensable. The one in the orchid house here is formed with slate one inch thick. Mr. Beck, of Isleworth, puts them up in a capital style. The one here has been up for seven years, and has never leaked at all. The great use is the heating the water for syringing and watering purposes. Another use, and an important one too, is for dipping the blocks with the plants on them; also to dip the Stanhopeas, Gongoras and other plants in baskets. When those plants begin to grow in the spring they require a good steeping, and the cistern offers a proper place for that purpose. Two or three hours will not be too much to steep them. The peat during

the time of rest becomes dry and hard, and requires this wetting to soften it, especially if the plants are to be shifted into new baskets.

As orchids require frequent syringing, sometimes twice or thrice a day, we have made use of pots—garden pots, in fact, without holes. These are placed round the horse near the hot water pipes, at a small distance, about six or nine feet apart. Our readers that are in the habit of syringing will immediately perceive the great saving of time and labour by having these pots so handy. Instead of having the water to carry in garden watering-pans, these pots being kept constantly full of warm water are always ready. Having found great benefit and convenience from this arrangement we seriously recommend its adoption, not only to every orchid grower, but also to the cultivators of plants generally. Plant-houses of every description ought to have a number of them placed in convenient places, both for syringing and watering. In walking round the houses the operator observes a plant requiring water: the watering pots are in their proper place: there is no water near; the plant is passed by until the usual time of watering, when it receives, probably, only the usual quantity; the ball inside continues dry, the plant languishes, becomes diseased and dies. This is the history of the causes of death to many a fine heath and other well rooted plants, and though orchids, owing to their peculiar conformation, would not thus be killed, yet they suffer much from the privation of water when they are growing. If pots of water are placed as we have mentioned, the manager, on observing a plant drooping, would instantly take it and dip it into one of them, and thus at once refresh it.

SYRINGES. These are necessary implements, especially for the orchid cultivator. The best we know are those manufactured by Reid. The cost of a complete one, with three roses of different degrees of fineness, is 21s. The coarsest rose may be used when the plants require the most moisture, that is, during the growing months. The finest rose is to syringe the plants on blocks only during the rest of the year. The manner of using syringes requires some notice. The water should not be forced out with great force, like a heavy shower driven by a strong wind, but should fall upon the plants gently, something like dew, or more like the shower often called " a Scotch mist." This mode will effectually wet the logs, and keep the plants clean, and their leaves bright and healthy. We have alluded to syringing the plants on blocks in winter. This is necessary, because from the increased application of artificial heat to keep out the cold, the logs dry quickly, however moist the atmosphere may be, and the roots and the pseudo bulbs belonging to the small plants will shrink too much if left without syringing for so many weeks. As a general rule, let them be syringed gently with the finest syringe early every morning when the sun is likely to shine. This moisture will sustain them during the day, and prevent the too great evaporation from the leaves of the plants.

SHADING.-We slightly mentioned this in describing the aspect of the houses. We will now enter more fully upon the subject, as we consider it of great importance. Mr. Bateman, in his splendid work on the Orchidea of Mexico, gives this as a rule, let the plants have all the light possible, but do not let the sun in spring and summer shine upon them." Taking it, then, for granted that they must be shaded, we next must consider what kind of shade is the best for them. We use a kind of canvass

wheel over the artichoke beds all the clearings from the asparagus and sea-kale plantations, all the decayed leaves from the brocoli and cabbage, as well as all other refuse leaves, garden clearings, and rubbish, so that the whole surface of the ground is covered to the depth of six or eight inches, and the tops of the cut artichoke stalks only just allowed to be showing through. The tubers should be trenched out as required, and the whole of the rubbish by degrees well trenched in, leaving the ground in two foot ridges; and all the middling sized tubers should at once be planted again whole, at the distance of two feet apart between every alternate ridge. We always plant the same ground, without delay, on the system we are now recommending, and obtain an immense crop, forking over the ridges pretty often on the dry frosty mornings in spring, and laying down the ground rough and light about the end of March or the beginning of April. Pigs and cows are fond of the small refuse tubers, as well as poultry of all kinds, from the pigeon to the pea-fowl and pheasant, all of which like the Jerusalem artichoke, either cooked or uncooked. If the ground cannot be spared for the artichoke to remain as recommended until required for use, then the tubers may as soon as well ripened be all taken up, and either be ridged out of doors or packed in sand; but care must be taken to keep them safe from mice and rats, as these vermin also are exceedingly fond of them. Globe artichokes, if not already dressed, should be attended to as directed in a former Number.

POTATOES.-Those that have been stored away in quantities should occasionally be examined to see whether the old enemy is, or is not, making any havoc amongst them. We are this year blessed with a crop of the finest quality, free from disease, or, at all events, so slightly affected as to be almost impercep tible, and we attribute our success mainly to the system which we adopt of planting all our principal crops in the autumn. November is our favourite season, if the soil is in good condition and the weather favourable; and if the ground is not in a tolerable state, we then apply a moderate quantity of manure, trenching the ground into two-feet ridges, and allowing these to remain for a short time. Those potatoes which were selected for replanting at takingup time, of a moderate size and well-ripened, are planted whole, placing them one foot apart between each ridge. The ridges are then laid down over the tubers with the fork, as lightly and roughly as possible, and thus they are allowed to remain all the winter. By the time that the drying frosty March winds set in, the soil becomes in a well-pulverized and very good condition, and a few good hoeings and scarifyings will then be found beneficial. If the earth is forked down lightly over the tubers to the depth of four or five inches, it will be quite sufficient to protect them from any frost that may prevail.

SEA-KALE. Those who have not done so should, without delay, attend to the directions already given for cultivating this vegetable. Clear away all the leaves and weeds, and give a good dusting with slacked lime. Fork up the beds carefully, and topdress them. Those who wish for early cuttings may now cover up a small quantity, say 20 or 30 plants. First examine the crowns with the hand, and find out their extent, so as to know where to place the pots over them; then give the ground about them a thorough good dusting with quick-lime, and put the pot over immediately, seeing that it fits close at the bottom, so that the steam cannot get in from the fermenting materials which are to cover the pots.

Stable-dung that has been turned over three or four times to sweeten may be used for this purpose, but leaves are very much better; and a good manager has always a corner where he collects all his leaves for this and other purposes. Give the pots a good covering of these leaves to the thickness of a foot or 18 inches all round and over them, pressing the leaves as close and as snug as can be done, leaving the work in a ridge-shaped form; after which a few barrowfuls of long stable-dung, or old thatch, or any other such material, may be put over the whole, which will tend to warmth, and prevent the wind from blowing the leaves away; altogether this should give a temperature of about 55°. A fine day should always be chosen for this work, and never leave off the job until it is finished.

The beds that are not required to be put into action just now, should have an extra shovelful of the good compost, before recommended, put over each crown to protect them from the two extremes, frost and sunshine. Much fertile matter will go down to the roots from these top-dressings. Many gardeners take up a quantity of sea-kale roots, either for potting, to be brought forward in the pinery or other similar places, or to be planted on a gentle hot-bed. This is giving themselves much trouble for very little profit We never saw the gardener that could show a good dish of sea-kale grown in this way equal to that obtained by the way of forcing above described.

ROUTINE WORK.-Keep the spinach and all similar crops free from decayed leaves, which, at this season, will accumulate, and form, if neglected, a sure refuge for slugs and snails. Keep up a due attention to hoeing and surface-stirring, an operation which will greatly encourage the growth of the late-sown turnips at this season, and if the soil in which they stand be poor, some guano, or guano and dry ashes mixed, or any kind of chaired dust, will be serviceable if sown amongst the crop. The framing of store lettuce and endive should be attended to on dry days. Place them close to the glass in turf or other temporarymade pits. Keep a sharp look out for the mildew, and for the depredations of the slug amongst the young store lettuce, carrots, radishes, &c., and attend to the previous directions concerning these. Provide for successions of asparagus, rhubarb, and sea-kale roots for forcing, and give tepid-water to those already breaking their buds. JAMES BARNES & W.

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

OUR VILLAGE WALKS.
(No. 5.)

I FREQUENTLY pass a cottage, on the wall of which hangs richly, but carelessly, a neglected vine. It is in a village street, and there is nothing picturesque or pleasing in the cottage or its situation; yet a vine, see it wherever we may, at once attracts the eye, and addresses itself to the heart. Whether we see it spreading and climbing in its rich eastern exuberance, or as the stunted bush of the western vineyards; whether it darkens the hothouse with its luscious drapery, or hangs with sour and tasteless clusters round the cottage window-the vine wings our thoughts with lightning speed to the Land of Promise, and the One glorious Plant of Renown." "I am the Vine, ye are the branches," has sanctified for ever this beautiful tree in the Christian's eyes and heart; and when he prunes away the unprolific shoot, and sees it lie with

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