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better, lasting longer, and are not so injurious to the plants. The only objection we know of is the expense. Where that is no consideration, we should have no great objection to their adoption. Baskets have also been made of earthenware; but, if there was no other objection, their great weight would be sufficient to set them aside as bad. We have tried all these, and have come to the conclusion that baskets made of wooden rods are the best for this purpose. We mentioned before that the most ornamental are made of the corrugated or rough-barked maple rods; but, as these are not always to be met with, hazel rods may be used, and make excellent baskets. The way we make them is simple enough. First the rods are procured, and sawn into proper lengths. The smallest we use are about the thickness of a man's middle finger. With this size, the smallest baskets are made. These are seven inches wide, and three rods deep. In this size, small Stanhopeas, and small plants of derides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, Gongoras, &c. are grown. For larger plants, larger baskets are made, and thicker rods used. The largest we ever had occasion to make was for a fine plant of Aerides odorata. This plant is four feet high, and two and a-half feet through. The rods used for it are nearly as thick as a moderate-sized man's wrist. The basket is two feet square, which is the shape we prefer, as being the most simple and easiest made. When the rods are sawn into lengths, the ends are pared smooth with a knife; then small holes are bored through each, one at each end, as near it as possible without splitting. The instrument used to bore the holes with is a very small steel rod, about six inches long, with a wooden handle; it is filed to a point at the end intended to bore the hole with. We find it convenient to have two or three, for a reason we shall state presently. After a certain number of rods are cut and smoothened, they are taken to a place where there is a small, clear, red fire; the sharp end of one of the borers is put into it about one inch. As soon as that is red hot, the other is put in, the heated one drawn and thrust into the rod very near the end, and held there as long as it continues to burn its way without much pressure. If too much force is used, the wood will be apt to split. As soon, therefore, as the instrument ceases to burn its way through, it is replaced in the fire. The other by this time will be red hot also; this is then taken out of the fire, and applied to the hole. This operation is thus performed with each bore alternately till the hole is made through the rod. The description of this operation takes up considerably more time than the operation itself. It is quickly and easily done, as any of our readers may prove on trial. After as many rods are bored as may be wanted at one time, the next thing is to put them together. The articles necessary for this are some copper wire and a few flat-headed copper nails. Each basket will require four lengths of wire, the length of each to be in proportion to the size of the basket they are intended for. They should be long enough to meet at least eight inches above the top of the smaller-sized baskets, and from a foot to eighteen inches above the larger ones. At the end of each piece of wire make a loop so large that it will not draw through the holes; then lay the first two rods, and upon them, for the smallest basket, lay three others; nail these three to the two outside rods, thus forming a sort of raft, to use a nautical term for want of a better; turn this over, and underneath it put two other rods, to form the other two sides of the basket;

then draw the four pieces of wire through the holes at each corner, the looped end being underneath. Continue to lay a pair of rods alternately, drawing the wire through each till the basket; is of the required depth. The smallest size, three rods deep; the two next, four deep, and so on. When that is done, make four small pointed pegs, and drive them into each hole at the four corners. This will fasten the rods in their places, and prevent them from ever starting upwards; then draw the wires together at the top, twisting each pair over each other, and fasten them with a piece of fine wire. Your basket is now complete, and ready for use. The making of these will be a pleasant occupation to the amateur, and may be done at any time, to be ready whenever he may procure the plants, or those already in his possession may require new ones. Some may object to these baskets, because, being made of hazel rods, they may soon decay. To this we reply, that we have had experience that they will last long enough; for, by the time they are completely rotten, the plants will, if properly managed and well grown, be large enough to require new ones, and the old ones being so rotten, they can be the more easily broken up without injuring the plants, as they certainly would if the baskets were made of more imperishable materials. While we are upon this subject we will mention that we have seen some very neat baskets made of the bamboo caues; and when they can be procured cheap enough, we certainly do recommend our readers to make their baskets of this light, elegant material. We have also seen baskets made of crooked pieces of small, peeled branches of oak. These, when neatly made, on account of their rustic appearance, are very suitable for the purpose. We have particularised these various materials because, in various parts of the country, some one or other may be more easily procured at a cheaper rate than the next. To the enthusiastic admirer of these plants, every little circumstance that bears upon his favourite pursuit will be interesting, and, we have no doubt, useful, though our directions may appear to such of our readers as take no interest in orchid culture somewhat tedious, and too minute.

FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

THE PANSY.-Perhaps there is no florist flower that pleases the uninitiated so much as this flower. It is a great favourite with us, and we are always glad to see it, whether grown in a first-rate style, or simply planted out in the cottager's flower border, and left to bloom as it pleases. In every way it is pleasing, flowering from April to October, if judiciously managed. Of no other florist flower can we say the same, if we except the rose, and this exception must be considerably qualified, as the same kind of rose does not bloom all the season. The culture of the pansy in this month is to place all the very choice scarce kinds under shelter." The best way to do this is to put the plants into pots 44 inches diameter, and place them in a cold frame, brick pit, or even turf pit. In any of these shelters they will do well. Give them a very moderate supply of water, pick off every day all decaying leaves, and keep a keen look out for snails and slugs, For more plentiful or more common kinds, the proper culture is to plant them out in beds of light rich earth, in an open part of the garden. The pansy will not thrive well in the shade. That is a point that every practical florist, we are quite sure, will agree to. This operation of planting may be done now, but

great care must be taken to press the earth firmly to each plant, or the frost, if early and severe, will throw them out of the ground. This may seem somewhat curious to those who have not witnessed the effect of frost, but it is nevertheless perfectly true. A thin stratum of spent tanner's bark will in a great measure prevent this not-to-be-desired occurrence. Old plants of pansies-that is, such as have been blooming almost till now-are scarcely worth preserving, unless it happens to be a good, scarce kind. In such a case, we should take up the plant, divide it carefully, preserving a portion of the root to each division, put them in pots, and keep them under shelter till spring. We have a list by us of nine kinds of pansies that we observed at a place near Edinburgh, but time and space prevents us inserting it this week. They were the best pansies we ever saw, and during a long journey of nearly three months, when we were constantly on the look out for good new things, that is saying a good deal in their favour. We shall give them their names and description next week if possible. T. APPLEBY.

THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. ASPARAGUS.-Where good plants are plentiful they may be forked out carefully in succession for forcing. At first, as previously directed, the bottom heat should be moderate, for the goodness and abundance of the crop depend much on this provision. The open ground plantations should at once have a liberal application of rich manure, if not already done. Fork it in, leave the surface rough, and the winter rains will wash down the fertilising matters of the manure to the roots of the plants, and the frost will mellow the surface of the soil.

CABBAGE. Those who have plants of esteemed varieties should look them over, and select for producing seed those which head the soonest and are the handsomest shaped. Place them where they are intended to stand for seeding.

COLEWORTS.Those which are forward and are forming their hearts may be taken up advantageously and laid in by the heels in any sheltered cor ner, to be protected during severe frost. The ground thus cleared may be manured, trenched, and cast into rough ridges, to be well forked about during frosty mornings.

CABBAGES.-Large varieties with hard hearts may be pulled up and stored, by hanging them up in any dry outhouse or cellar, where they will keep for a considerable time in good condition. This prevents the waste by bursting and rotting, if they are left in the ground, at this season of the year, when frosts and wet prevail. Savoys, early headed, may be treated in the same manner.

CAULIFLOWERS and BROCOLI now forming heads should be diligently watched, and all not required for immediate use hung root upwards in a dry shed for winter store.

The

CELERY should now be carefully earthed up during fine dry afternoons, or much disappointment may arise from its becoming cankered and rotten. late planted celery should be kept clear of suckers, and the surface about it be kept loose by frequent stirring.

RHUBARB.-Roots of the early varieties may be made to yield an early produce by any cottager who may have the spare corner of a fuel-house, cellar, or any other dry place. Nail a few old boards together

just to hold the roots, or they may be put into an old bucket or butter firkin cut in two.

SEA-KALE.-Plants should be thoroughly cleared from all dead leaves and refuse, but such leaves as still remain green should be neither cut nor pulled off. The crowns of the plants should then be protected by covering them an inch or two deep, either with coal-ashes or, what we find much better, with some kind of charred refuse.

SEA-KALE FORCING.-Another mode than that mentioned in our last is the following:-Some of the stools which, by dropping their leaves first, showed that their crowns were earliest ripened, should be taken up carefully, with as much uninjured roots as possible. These planted thickly in boxes, placed in a mushroom-house, and watered frequently with tepid water, will produce two or three crops of nice shoots throughout the winter months. Forced sea-kale may also be produced in any dark cellar, or indeed in any room, if the precaution is taken of covering the crowns to the depth of six or eight inches with leafmould, or well decayed tan or charred refuse.* We have also practised other easy and cheap methods of forcing this vegetable. In the houses, when forcing early grapes, peaches, pines, &c., we have placed boxes and tubs filled with its roots, and when we have had room to spare, in the pits of such houses, we have placed quantities there in rows in succession, and have had abundance of excellent shoots. We have also erected slight hot-beds, with well-wrought fermenting materials, placed on a foundation of wood prunings. On the top of the fermenting materials we put twelve or fifteen inches of leaf-mould, decayed tan, or some kind of light earth, for the roots to be planted in. On this we place a rough box or frame of the required size, formed of four boards nailed together, ten or twelve inches broad. A slip or two of board is nailed across to support a covering of boards, mats, or thatched hurdles, for the purpose of keeping the plants in the dark. A frame of this kind six feet square will produce a good succession of well bleached sea-kale. Against the outsides of the frame may be heaped up any kind of rubbish, and when the heat declines it may be renewed by the application of linings of fermenting materials. By one or the other of these plans a cottager might obtain a sufficient produce not only to repay him for his labour, but a surplus wherewith to purchase garden tools and seeds. By taking up the plants and forcing them in these modes, they are so weakened as not to be worth replanting. To obtain good strong roots for thus forcing in succession every year, it is necessary to sow every April in drills one foot apart. Transplant the seedlings in the following March on a welltrenched, manured, and pulverized piece of ground. Apply liberal soakings to them of liquid manure in the growing season, with salt added in quantity regulated by the strength of the plants. By the autumn

* Mr. Barnes is of opinion that "this is a much less troublesome, cheaper, and simpler, mode of producing forced sea-kale, and that it may be produced throughout the winter with more certainty and in finer condition than by forcing it with fermenting materials on the ground where it grows." He is also of opinion that this mode produces smaller shoots, and exhausts and ruins the roots. Now, we are sorry to differ from so good an authority as Mr. Barnes on all these points. The heaviest crops and the finest forced sca-kale exhibited at one of the best country shows in England, we know, is from roots that have been forced by means of leaves heaped over them, as described by us at p. 79, for the last twelve years. Then, as to the trouble and expense, let the detail of the two systems be compared. Mr. Mills, gardener to Baroness de Rothschild, forces by means of leaves, &c., over the plants in the bed, and says in his Treatise on the Cucumber, &c. p, 100, "Plants of sea-kale may be taken up and forced in frames, in the same manner as asparagus, but the heads will not be so fine, iudependently of which they will be destroyed after the first forcing."-ED. C. G.

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(No. 6.)

NOVEMBER is the month that most severely tries the spirits of those who do not love the country, and, indeed, of those who do. The gloomy fogs that often occur, the mud of the roads, and the soppiness of the fields, make country walks very uncomfortable, and prevent many from enjoying an exercise that in almost all weathers is beneficial, and in almost every season has a charm. It certainly does require some little effort to plunge into a dense November fog; yet, wrapped in a plaid, even that unpromising atmosphere has been a source of enjoyment to me; and perhaps I may find among my indulgent readers another oddity who feels as I do, and can brave all weather except a straight pouring rain. There is a loneliness in a fog that I delight in. To stand and look round, and see nothing beyond the very nearest objects, and those but dimly, is strikingly impressive. An approaching step has in it something startlingit is so near, and yet we can see nothing! We feel alone in the world, and our eye mechanically turns to the misty yet lighter spot above, marking the position of the sun. This is a true picture of our earthly course. How dimly and imperfectly do we see all that passes around us; and how unable are we to penetrate the thick mist that envelopes futurity! We hear sounds of peril, but we cannot tell what is advancing, or how to escape it; and those who have the keenest foresight and clearest eye do but stand with a fearfully small extent of road open before them, and perhaps discern the outline of some object that looks like an approaching giant. Even the Christian can only see through a glass darkly," till the veil is removed from his sight. May not, then, a wet, comfortless fog teach us a salutary lesson, and prove to us not only the foolishness of all our worldly wisdom, but the deep need we stand in of light from above?

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There are, however, days of extreme beauty in November, while the last rich tints linger in the trees, and here and there a flower still makes the hedgerow interesting. In spite of the wet, which now in some places never dries up, a morning walk has abundant beauty, and fully bears out the pre-eminence which the country possesses, even in winter, over the confinement of the town. I was standing one day on a natural grassy terrace, at the edge of a larch plantation, looking down upon a small sunny farm, and beyond it, over a thickly wooded valley, dotted with quiet residences and cottages, some of them visible, and many others I knew, snugly closed in with trees: the sounds of tillage, the voice of the ploughman, and the creak of the plough, rose from the fields beneath me; the sharp strokes of a busy hammer came from the outbuildings of the farm; and near me the bill' of a woodman, making up larch bavins, made melody too, for there is music in all the sounds

of country life. I bethought me of the clatter of

carts and carriages in a noisy town, of the close air, and unlovely sights that inhabitants of towns endure, and it made me glad to think that perhaps THE COTTAGE GARDENER has been the means of promoting

the enjoyments of many who would fain live among the beauties of nature, and whose little garden or flower-stand has glowed more richly since the skill of kind and scientific men has been brought so much within their reach.

I thought, too, as I stood admiring every thing around me, that the agriculturist possesses the most peaceful enjoyable station of life, provided he lays up in his heart the solemn command, "Walk before me, and be thou perfect." God is the “ shield, and exceeding great reward," of all who take hold of His covenant; and this is the tap-root of man's prosperity, be he prince or peasant. It is not making haste to be rich that makes us so; it is not rising up early, and late taking rest, and eating the bread of carefulness, that makes us easy and happy. We are directed to be "not slothful in business, fervent in spirit, serving the Lord." We may, in this temper of mind, be less rich than our worldly neighbour, but safe and more happy.

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The labours of an English farmer, or gardener, or labourer, are among such beautiful things,-the smell of the earth is so pleasant, the early morning air is such a draught of health,―the very cattle and beasts of burden are, or should be, so interesting to him with their willing returns for the care he takes of them, the seasons as they glide round are so delight ful, and he is so mixed up with, and belonging to, each and all, that his life is one of great blessings, many privileges, and much scope for doing good. What a touching reproof, too, is daily brought before the eyes of the agriculturist! The ox knoweth his owner, and the ass his master's crib, but Israel doth not know, my people doth not consider." Are we wiser, are we more thoughtful, than the people of God were then? How many reproofs rise up like adders under our very feet as we walk through our own quiet, beautiful land! The peaceful cattle gathering around the farm-yard gate, the poultry retiring one by one to roost through the well-known door, the dog rejoicing to see his master, and knowing his step and voice long before he sees him, all condemn the coldness and indifference of man to God. If the cottager, if every body, considered these things, they would not find their path more rugged or their days more dull; and they would have this added comfort, that when the long night comes in which no mau can work, they would enjoy a sunrise of glory that will never set again.

The elm and the lime trees have been this year remarkable for the exquisite gold colour of their dying leaves. Some elms I have seen have been most strikingly beautiful, and the prevalence of this colour among the autumnal tints this season has made some spots appear quite like a fairy scene. The lime is a beautiful tree in all its stages, and in the flowering season its sweetness is extreme. The little bunches of delicate pale flowers drooping from every twig give the whole tree a very graceful appearance, and afford an abundant supply of food for thousands of bees, who come from long distances, attracted by the powerful scent. The lower boughs bend down till they rest upon the ground, forming a thick and beautiful shade, under which a group may enjoy coolness and seclusion during the hottest day; therefore these trees are particularly suitable to the lawn and pleasure-ground. The flowers, fresh or dried, made into tea, are good in all nervous complaints, relieving the giddiness and trembling that arise from disordered nerves. The inner bark is said to be good for destroying worms. The wood of the lime is so white and delicate that it is much used for

making chip bonnets, and a high price is often offered for it on this account. It is, I think, the first tree to greet us with its early buds. "The limes are bursting into leaf!" has been for many years a joyful exclamation, when the lingering chilliness of spring has made us long for summer. How delightful are the first tokens of returning vegetation! We are now fast entering into the dark wintry season, when all things sleep; and we cannot tell whether our eyes may ever again behold the summer's sun; but he will come forth at the appointed time, to run his gladdening course; and the limes will again spring forth to great him. Let us be prepared to "arise and shine," when our Great Light shall come.

just such rafters as for a slate roof. I will then train vines inside. Please to tell me the best vines for this purpose. The cows will be in the house all the winter, and until June-they will keep the place warm." We should have a groove cut on each side of the rafters to let the glass into, having the panes of sufficient width to reach from rafter to rafter, and have no cross splines, for they would be of no use to support the glass, and would obstruct the light. You cannot grow a better grape in such a house than the Black Hamburgh.

HAMILTON'S FLOWER SUPPORTER (Inquisitor).-The woodcut below will enable you to judge of this for yourself. We think it combines all that is requisite for the purpose for which it was designed. It is economical, keeps the bulbs stationery, and the flower upright, without disfiguring its appearance, besides facilitating the process of draining the water in bulb-glasses without handling the stem and roots.

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EXTRACTS FROM CORRESPONDENCE.

NEW BEE-FEEDER.-I find a bee-feeder made as follows useful, being cheap, large, and easily made by any one. I buy at a gutta percha shop one of their shilling basons, and about two pennyworth of their tubing. I place the bottom of the bason on hot water, and when it is soft put some round substance in it, say a pound weight, to destroy its concave shape. This I do to allow the usual wood float to sink to the bottom when the bees have emptied the bason. This done, I cut a hole at the bottom of the bason, the same dimensions as the tubing, and thrust the tubing through to the proper height, sealing it carefully round, by the help of the bit of gutta percha cut out, to make it water tight, which point I always test before I put the food in. I have a bit (say an inch) of tubing projecting at the bottom of the feeder, which keeps it firm in the hole at the top of the hive. I find that plan answers better in wood feeders also than having the bottom flat, like those you buy at Neighbour and Sons. The advantage of my gutta percha affair is the immense quantity it holds, and any one can make it. As to a lid, a bit of glass, or slate, or pasteboard, or wood, put at the top does famously. Of course the tubing must not be thrust quite as high as the sides of the bason, or the lid would lie on its top, and prevent the bees getting up. I have two so made at work; and this last week two of my hives, one containing two first swarms and a second, and the other three second swarms, have carried down out of them eight pounds each, made according to your prescription. My feeders hold two and a half pounds each. I fed a number of lives last autumn and this spring with a mixture as follows: one quart of house table beer, one pound of loaf sugar, one quarter of a pound of coarse brown sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of salt, boiled for five minutes. They all did well, and such swarms as mine were never seen in this country before. I gave very liberally both in autumn and spring.-A BROTHER BEE-KEEPER.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

MANURING FOR POTATOES (Rev. W. B).-We are decidedly opposed to putting fresh manure to potatoes, either at planting time or at any time during their growth. It keeps the stems green and the tubers unripened until later than if it were not applied at all. Your freshly broken-up pasture, though you have had a crop of oats from it, cannot require any manure.

GREENHOUSE AND COW-HOUSE COMBINED (T. W.)-Your plan is unique, but we know of no reason against its success. Our correspondent writes thus: "I am building a new cow-house, and I have determined to roof it with patent plate-glass, glazed on the rafters

MARTAGON (Ibid).-This and the Turncap, or Turban lily, are both the same flower, Lilium martagon; but the Tiger-spotted lily is Lilium tigrinum.

BORDERS TOO DRY (S.).-This arises from your southern aspect, the absorbent nature of your stone walls, and the sheltering of the horse chesnut, to say nothing of its roots. There is no remedy but the watering-pot, aided by digging your borders deep, and mixing the soil with a little stiffer soil. Why not grow dwarf shrubs only in them, and turf up round these, leaving a small circle round each to fill with water as required?

INNOCENTS (- -).-Thanks for your information. It shall be attended to.

LIST OF GLADIOLUS (A. Z.).-We find we can do nothing at present in this. There are some hundreds of seedling gladioluses, and we could do no good by attempting to give any thing like a useful list of them. Consult our previous lists. A friend of ours flowered 1000 gladiolus seedlings this season.

MOULD ON HYACINTHS (A Young Florist).-It is only the old ring left by the former roots and the dead coating of the bulbs that have damped, and thar happens whichever way they are grown, but does not effect the bulbs in the least.

POTTER'S LIQUID GUANO (Ibid).-We know nothing about this, Soot and as we never use any liquid manure unless we see it made. water is an excellent liquid manure, if used in moderation both as to quantity and strength.

CHINESE PIGS (J. Ball).-Our correspondent wishes to know where he can purchase some of the true breed of this animal.

SPINACH TURNING YELLOW (H. W. W.).-Look to the roots. If no grub or wireworm is attacking them there must have been something too stimulating in the manure you applied.

HIMALAYAH PUMPKIN SEED.-Will all those of our readers who saved seed be kind enough to send us a few. We have many applications for them, and not a seed in our possession. Will the applicants be kind enough to take this as a general reply.

OVER-LUXURIANT IMPERATRICE PLUM (T. P. F.).-Root-pruning ever must have time to produce its effects. When healthylooking trees still produce much wood on the heels of root-pruning, it is a sure sign that the operation has not been sufficiently severe. In such cases we frequently take up the tree, and replant, expecting to find some powerful roots of a perpendicular character. If you do so with your imperatrice, pray do not allow more than half a yard in depth; below that, substitute an artificial substratum of stone or brick.

STAWBERRIES BLOOMING NOW (Y. Z.). - Strawberries, of the Hautbois section, are very apt to bloom out of season. They do not like to be tampered with. We could force a whole bed of the Hautbois to blossom in October, by cutting off their tops in September, and applying liquid manure. In this case, it is the organised buds intended for next year's crops which are compelled prematurely to

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THE COTTAGE GARDENER.

leave the rest state-in other words, they are naturally very excitable. Let the runners spread freely on all sides, and do not meddle with them, except by spreading some rich manure among them immediately. This will protect their crowns, and be nearly vanished by next March. For new beds get Kean's seedling, the British Queen, and the Elton. Any truly respectable nurseryman will furnish white Raspberry canes.

HEATING A FLUED WALL (An East Lothian Sub.).-You should We should say have stated the length of your wall, and we then could have thrown out suggestions better adapted to your purpose. that, by your arrangement, one fire would heat nearly forty yards in length of course, two would do it better. Now, if you have a furnace extra, it will be better than having too little power; such need not entail any additional expense; hazard the mere outlay for the furnace. You must bear in mind that the farther the heat travels the more it becomes dissipated. Much, however, depends on the kinds of fruit, and their arrangement on the wall. Pears and plums would not be injured under judicious arrangments: they of course would be at the end farthest from the fire. Take off your tiles now, and let the rain enter; only take care there is a free egress from the boxes. The latter should now be surrounded and covered with litter of any kind, merely to ward off extremely low temperature.

Your bottom heat of 81 PINES ON THE HAMILTONIAN SYSTEM (J. W.)-Your plants It ought to should have produced fruit before now. is too exciting, pray drop 10° from now until February. be understood, however, that the suckers from established Hamil"show." tonians will fruit more speedy than the original plants. It would appear that the older the plants get the sooner they Have another winter's patience, moderate your heats, and withhold water entirely from their roots for many weeks, and write us again. Be sure to ventilate freely. We would not take the vines out; let them be fastened as near to the roof as possible. Give more air, even on account of the vines, for your case is a compromise, as half garPrune immediately, and use white lead on each dening matters are. cut. By all means keep out all the wet you can. Also, pray put several inches of litter or leaves on the border.

YELLOW ACACIA CUTTINGS (A Priest).-You have struck some cuttings in 48 sized pots, according to our directions at page 123 of vol. 2, and you ask how you ought to treat them? Keep the cuttings in those pots till the end of March; then pot them separately in threeinch pots in loam, peat, and sand, mixed in equal proportions. Keep them in the hot-bed till midsummer, and then shift them into other pots one size larger, using one half loam: after that return them to the hot-bed for a month, and by St. Swithin's-day remove them to the greenhouse. Do not expose them to the open air till the following summer.

A six

GLADIOLI IN POTS (R. J. Y.)-If grown singly put one in a sixinch pot. Your bulbs of G. cardinalis and G. byzantinus, not larger than those of the crocus, will probably not flower next year. inch upright pot is sufficient for one large bulb of gladioli, and for three such bulbs as you bought. The best way is to put five bulbs in a nine-inch pot-one in the middle and the rest at equal distances round the side.

ANGLE OF HOUSES (W. S. Watson).-In using the quadrant, for determining the angles of hothouse roofs, as recommended a short time ago, you must count from the commencement of the arch, and not from the middle, and then, wherever the knob hangs, that will If, in your case, it hangs at 75°, then you will indicate the angle. find the roof is flatter than that marked as 70° in the diagram, p. 257, vol. ii. There is a want of definiteness in this respect among gardening authors, for some of them, counting as it were backwards, would say that your roof was placed at an angle of 15°; but the mode adopted is generally understood from the preceding and following context. We prefer the mode recommended as the simplest. MANY QUESTIONS (An Anxious Gardener).-Roses.-Young plants in cold pits should not be pruned until spring. They may be protected from frost by sticking fern amongst them, or covering the Espalier Pears.-You might glass with mats, straw, hurdles, &c. lay in a young shoot here, and there between the main shoots, which are a foot apart, but it should have been done in summer, and the others shortened. See, however, that the leaves from one shoot will not shade those belonging to another. Camellias.-Those that do not please you will not be improved in appearance now by setting them on a stage for several weeks out of doors, though, if you protect We think they would be better them, they may be little the worse. housed. See a late article on the subject. Asparagus.-Do not cut or trim your asparagus roots at all that you intend forcing. Take them up as whole as possible. Set the crowns close together, and if the roots overlop each other, it will not signify if a little light earth is worked in amongst them. Fuchsias.-If the fuchsias remain in the greenhouse they must be kept slowly growing, and should be pruned whenever the buds are fairly broken; if in sheds, give little water, and prune in spring, when the new shoots are half an inch long. Geraniums.- Water them when dry, and not atparticular periods; this will depend upon the weather, and the heat and air you give them, and as to whether the pots are full of roots, or the reverse. The only FOREST TREES (G. B. C.). We are glad that "Our Village Walks" has aroused you to pay attention to forest trees. work that we know, combining all your requirements, scientific dis tinctions, popular description, and drawings, is Selby on Trees. DORKING FOWLS (T. P.).-You will see the same question asked at p. 82. If we receive an answer we will insert it.

MUMMY WHEAT AND BLACK BARLEY.-Mr. E. Palmer, of Charwell-street, Banbury, very liberally offers to supply any of our readers with a few grains of these if they will enclose him two postage stamps with their address.

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CANKERED PARSNIPS (J. Butler).-The gangrene or canker in your parsnips is caused by the wetness of your soil, which you say is very heavy." Take them up immediately, and store them between layers of sand or other dry material. Drain your ground by all means, and trench it, so as to bring a small portion of "the loose strong

subsoil" to mix with the surface soil. If in addition to this you mix
some coal-ashes and bricklayers' limy rubbish with it, you will improve
the staple for growing both parsnips and potatoes, and, indeed, for all
vegetables. Do not plant your potatoes until February, but keep them
until then in dryish earth or sand. Flour-ball potatoes are good for
autumn-planting in moderately light soil.

HARD-WATER (Dianthus.)-Instead of a pint of gas ammoniacal liquor added to 60 gallons, as recommended at p. 9, you may put in anjounce of carbonate of ammonia from the druggist's. It is all the better to make the mixture a day or two before using it. We have not forgotten about the flower-pots. Place the supplementary number at the end of the volume.

WEIGELIA ROSEA (W. R. I.).This is quite hardy. Paxton's Botanical Dictionary is stereotyped, and, therefore, what has been since discovered to be a mistake (a mistake on the right side) could not be corrected. Hypericum chinense, or nepalense, is a greenhouse evergreen shrub.

POTATO ONION (J. M. C.).-Plant now on the surface of a light Cover each bulb with a little heap moderately-rich, fresh-dug soil.

of leaf-mould or very rotten dung. Plant eight inches apart. Do not earth them up, but as soon as the leaves are full grown clear away all covering from the bulbs. They will be fit for storing as soon as the leaves are dead in July.

SCARLET GERANIUM (E. L.).-Your plant has "three very thick brown branches, and the same number of green branches," and you wish to know which you should cut off and fold in paper. The "three very thick brown branches" are the oldest and ripest, therefore the best to retain on the plant, and would also be the best to cut off for preserving in paper till the spring; but our friend Mr. Beaton has told us long since that that experiment was more curious than useful; nevertheless, you may try the three green shoots that way, cutting them to one joint from the old wood, and you will oblige us if you let us know next February how you succeeded, that being a good time to plant the cuttings.

IXIA SEEDS (L. L.). The proper time to sow the seeds of ixias, and all other bulbs which rest periodically, is that at which they naturally begin to grow. Ixias, sparaxis, and some gladioli, begin to grow at the end of September, therefore that is the proper time to Sow yours immediately. Upright pots are manuSow their seeds. factured at all the potteries.

GUERNSEY LILY (A. A., Clericus).-The offset which is shooting up from the bulb of your Guernsey lily will be of no use to you. When the bulb has done flowering throw the whole away, and use the pot for some other plant.

RIDGING (Ibid).-Without reference to the communication you mention, we will state the most effectual mode of performing the operation described by Mr. Parkins, as quoted in Johnson's GardenLet a b c d er's Almanac.

represent a section of the
ground to be thrown into
ridges, and trenched two feet
deep. Measure the ground
into beds four feet wide;
then lay the top spit of the

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bed e on the bed g, and the second spit of c on the bed h; then
the top spit of f on h, so that the top soil and the subsoil are
When the first
kept on separate and alternate beds, and may be either mixed, re-
versed, or returned, as the gardener may wish.
thrown out beds are sufficiently pulverized they are levelled down,
and others thrown out in the same way. g h i represent the ridges
thrown out, and left as rough as possible.

DAHLIAS (R. Reynoldson).- Any of the florists who advertise in our columns will supply them.

BRAMELES FOR BEE-HIVE MAKING (A Reader, Pinxton).-Our correspondent wishes to know the proper time for getting these for sowing together the bands of straw hives, of what age they ought to We will publish an extract from be, and how to manage them? your note. JOHNSON'S GARDENERS' ALMANACK (Columella).-It contains fresh information every year. Keep your dissolved bones to apply to growing crops in the spring.

NAME OF PLANT (Rev. A. Slight)-Your evergreen twining-plant, as well as we can make out from the dried specimen, is Kennedya Sterlingii. Introduced from Swan River in 1834.

ASH TREE (Ibid).-This being "a noble-tree, and adding to the appearance of the house," we should not cut down, as it is situated in the part of the garden devoted only to ornament. It is quite true that very few plants will grow beneath it, but then the grounds might be so plotted out that you would not require them to do so; and, remember, when you cut down a noble tree you do that which you will never live to see replaced. You may arrange your flowers and shrubs -may move and replace them in a thousand modes to be beautifulbut a tree, forming a handsome feature about a residence, can never have the vacancy it leaves replenished during a lifetime of ordinary

extent.

LONDON: Printed by HARRY WOOLDRIDGE, 147, Strand, in the
Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand; and Winchester High-street, in
the Parish of St. Mary Kalendar; and Published by WILLIAM
SOMERVILLE ORR, at the Office, 147, Strand, in the Parish of
Saint Mary-le-Strand, London.-November 15th, 1849.

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