came down I managed to throw one end to Thompson's left hand, which was waved about, till he caught it. But, when pulled, it merely dragged out of his hand. Then with some difficulty I managed to tie a noose on the rope by putting both my hands above my head. With this I lassoed that poor pathetic arm which was the only part of Thompson that could be seen. Then came the tug-of-war. If he refused to move, I could do nothing more to help him; moreover I was afraid that at any moment he might faint. If that had occurred I do not believe he could have been got out at all, for the force of the fall had jammed him further down than it was possible to follow. Slowly the rope tightened, as it was cautiously pulled by those above. I could hear my heart thumping in the ghastly stillness of the place, but at last Thompson began to shift, and after some short time he was pulled into an upright position by my side. To get a rope round his body was of course hopeless. Partly by wriggling and pulling on my own rope I so shifted that by straining one arm over my head I could get my two hands together, and then tied the best and tightest jamming knot I could think of round his arm, just above the elbow. A shout to the rest of the party, and Thompson went rapidly upwards till he disappeared round the bulge of ice forty feet or more above. I can well remember the feeling of dread that came over me lest the rope should slip or his arm give way under the strain, and he should come thundering down on the top of me; but he got out all right, and a moment later I followed. Most marvellously no bones had been broken, but how any one could have fallen as he did without being instantaneously killed will always remain a mystery. He must have partially jammed some considerable distance higher up than the point where I found him, for he had a rücksack on his back, and this perhaps acted as a brake, as the walls of the crevasse closed in lower down. We were both of us nearly frozen and wet to the skin, for ice-cold water was slowly dripping the whole time on to us; and in my desire to be as little encumbered as possible, I had gone down into the crevasse very scantily clad in a flannel shirt and knickerbockers.' "A rapid descent to the head of the ice-fall quickly restored circulation, and that night over the camp fire the whole experience was gone over again, Thompson emphatically giving it as his opinion that, whatever scientific exploration or observation in future might be necessary on the summits of the Rocky Mountains, investigations made alone, sixty feet below the surface of the ice, in an inverted position, were extremely dangerous and even unworthy of record." APPENDIX C HINTS ON OUTFIT A SHORT list of articles of apparel and other incidentals, necessary or advantageous for mountain-climbing, may be of help to some to whom more or less alpine conditions are new. I. Personal wear. A good stout suit. Knickerbockers preferred by most. (The latter must be strong, as forests and crags are very hard on soft materials.) Puttees or leggings. For snow and forest. Stout boots, with plenty of nails in soles. Hat with good brim. Cap with ear-pieces useful to carry along if high ascents are undertaken. Gloves or mitts. Woollen preferred. Sweater. For high altitudes. Smoked glasses. Essential for snow and ice. II. Equipment. Necessary. Rope. Strong but light manilla, about half-inch diameter. (If a guide is taken, he will supply rope.) Ice-axe. (This can be obtained at Canadian Pacific Railway hotels, but it is better to have a private one if much is to be done.) Knife. String. (For emergencies.) Knapsack. (Unless guide can carry all needed.) III. Equipment. Optional. Camera or Kodak. Field-glasses. Compass. Aneroid. Clinometer. (On high ascents in all but well-known territory.) IV. Provisions. Bread (and butter, if possible). Cheese. Meat. Canned or otherwise. Water or cold tea. (Gourd or canteen is best for carrying water.) V. Useful luxuries. Chocolate. Jam. Dried fruit. (Prunes or raisins.) APPENDIX D A LIST OF "FIRST ASCENTS" (OF SOME PEAKS IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS UPWARDS OF 10,000 FEET) THESE records have been compiled from the most authentic sources possible. Chief amongst these are the valuable records of the magazine Appalachia, edited by Professor C. E. Fay and published for the Appalachian Mountain Club by Houghton, Mifflin and Co., at Cambridge, Mass., U.S.A. The works of Mr. W. D. Wilcox and Messrs. H. E. M. Stutfield and J. N. Collie have also supplied data for ascents made by these climbers. The altitudes have been taken as far as possible from the most recently issued maps and publications of the Dominion Land Survey. Otherwise the best authorities available have been consulted. The list is arranged according to precedence of altitude and includes forty peaks. The names of amateurs are given in alphabetical order, irrespective of leadership. The names of Swiss guides are printed in italics. 12,500 ft. July 19, 1902. J. Outram, C. Kauf mann. 12,100 ft. Aug. 10, 1902. J. N. Collie, J. Outram, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. 11,950 ft. July 24, 1902. J. Outram, C. Kauf mann. 11,900 ft. Aug. 18, 1898. J. N. Collie, H. Woolley. 11,860 ft. Sept. 3, 1901. J. Outram, C. Bohren, C. Häsler. 11,750 ft. Aug. 21, 1902. J. Outram, C. Kauf mann. . 11,671 ft. July 16, 1903. C. E. Fay, H. C. Par ker, C. Häsler, C. Kaufmann. MT. TEMPLE, DIADEM PEAK, . MT. VICTORIA, MT. HUNGABEE, MT. MURCHISON, MT. LEFROY, MT. HECTOR, 11,650 ft. Aug. 23, 1902. J. Outram, C. Kauf mann. 11,650 ft. Aug. 21, 1898. J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, H. Woolley. 11,637 ft. Aug. 18, 1894. S. E. S. Allen, L. F. Frissell, W. D. Wilcox. 11,500 ft. Aug. 26, 1898. J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, H. Woolley. 11,400 ft. Aug. 3, 1897. J. N. Collie, C. E. Fay, A. Michael, P. Sarbach. 11,305 ft. July 21, 1903. H.C. Parker, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. 11,300 ft. July 29, 1902. J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Kaufmann. 11,290 ft. Aug. 1, 1897. J. N. Collie, H. B. Dixon, C. E. Fay, A. Michael, C. L. Noyes, H. C. Parker, C. S. Thompson, J. R. Vanderlip, P. Sarbach. 11,205 ft. July 30, 1895. P. S. Abbot, C. E. Fay, C. S. Thompson. CONSOLATION PEAK, 11,200 ft. Aug. 19, 1902. J. Outram, C. Kauf MT. VICTORIA (N. peak), 11,150 ft. Aug. 24, 1900. J. Outram, W. Outram, J. H. Scattergood, — Clark,-Zurfluh. 11,000 ft. Aug. 26, 1902. J. Outram, C. Kauf 10,945 ft. Sept. 1, 1903. A. Eggers, H. C. Parker, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. 10,900 ft. Aug. 4, 1902. J. N. Collie, J. Outram, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. 10,875 ft. Aug. 11, 1898. C. L. Noyes, C. S. Thompson, G. M. Weed. Aug. 14, 1902. J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, H. Kaufmann. 10,780 ft. July 30, 1901. J. Outram, J. H. Scattergood, G. M. Weed, C. Häsler. 10,741 ft. July 16, 1901. C. E. Fay, J. Outram, J. H. Scattergood, C. Häsler. 10,700 ft. Aug. 25, 1897. G. P. Baker, J. N. Collie, P. Sarbach. MT. THOMPSON, MT. GORDON, . MT. CHABA, 10,600 ft. Aug. 15, 1901. J. Outram, E. Whym- 10,500 ft. Sept. 3, 1903. A. Eggers, H. C. H. Kaufmann. J. N. Collie, H. E. 10,500 ft. Sept. 6, 1898. J. N. Collie, H. E. M. 10,400 ft. Aug. 10, 1897. G. P. Baker, J. N. 10,300 ft. July 31, 1901. J. Habel and two CATHEDRAL MOUNTAIN, 10,284 ft. Aug. 26, 1901. J. Outram, J. Bos soney, C. Klucker. 10,250 ft. Aug. 17, 1894. S. E. S. Allen, L. F. Frissell, W. D. Wilcox. 10,200 ft. July 30, 1902. J. Outram, C. Kauf mann. 10,200 ft. Aug. 9, 1901. J. Outram, C. Kaufmann, J. Pollinger. 10,200 ft. Aug. 19, 1902. J. Outram, C. Kauf mann. 10,100 ft. Sept. 5, 1900. J. Outram, W. Outram, C. Häsler. |