of the Rhine, the Nile, the Zava, Velino, or those at Powerscourt, Lovely princess," said Llywelyn, "What will you give to see your Willim?" I'd freely give to see my Willim." This melancholy occurrence happened in 1229. The frail princess was Joan Plantagenet, daughter of King John. She survived this catastrophe eight years, and was interred, agreeably to her own request, in the monastery of the Dominican friars, at Llanfaes, near Beaumaris. Upon a mountain, four miles south of Llywelyn's castle, in a field called CarGwillim-Ddû, is an artificial cave, where William de Breos was interred. No spot could have been selected more abounding in admirable accompaniments than that upon which stood this small priory. It commands a magnificent view of the N. end of the Snowdonian chain, and an admirable prospect of the Bay of Beaumaris. Llywelyn erected a monument to the memory of Joan, and died in the year 1240. His son afterwards married the daughter of De Breos. The remains of the lady of Llywelyn were sufferred to repose in peace 293 years, till Henry VIII., "who may justly be charged with murdering the living and selling the dead," disposed of the monastery to one of his courtiers. The church was then converted into a barn, in which state it still remains. The ferocity of the times ejected Joan from her little tenement. Her coffin of stone was placed in a small brook, and for 250 years was used as a watering-trough. The late Lord Bulkeley rescued it from its degraded station, and placed it under a temple erected in the park, in honour of her memory. The sides, ends, and bottom are about four inches thick. From the cavity within, the Princess appears to have been five feet six or seven inches high; nine inches over the shoulders, and nine inches deep in the chest. On the way to PENMAENMAWR occurs the small village and church of LLANVAIR-VECHAN, beyond which that vast promontory, rising abruptly, like the rock of Gibraltar, from the ocean, is presented in tremendous majesty. TO BEAUMARIS. Take the sands at ebb-tide, four m., keeping in view the white house opposite; then cross by a ferry from a projecting gravelly bank to Beaumaris, called Osmund's Air. Since the erection of the suspension bridge near Bangor, few carriages are conveyed this way. TO CONWAY. From the comfortable inn at Aber, several travellers have ascended the summit of Penmaenmawr, returning, for the sake of passing over a romantic terrace road to Conway. The s. side is the least precipitous, but steep. This green slope forms a broad basement, out of which projects a stupendous mass of rock. The summit is 515 yards above the level of the sea. Upon this second stage of the mountain are the remains of an early British fortification, called Braich-y-Dinas, the arm of the city. "After a resolute tug," says Mr. Ayton, (Voyage, ii. 41.), “which advanced me to a great elevation, I turned round, and was gratified with a prospect which would have amply repaid the labour of a much more difficult expedition. To the r. was a blue expanse of boundless sea, and in front the yellow sands, bordered by a lovely plain. More directly under me lay a village with a church, seated at the entrance of a pretty valley. The mountains enclosing the glen of Aber appeared drawn circularly, with the shivered summit of Llwt-mawr soaring above them all. The white foam of the waterfall was also visible. Continuing my ascent, I soon arrived at the verge of Braich-y-Dinas. The summit shoots up in two protuberances : upon the lower there is a circular inclosure, about 12 feet in diameter, with a wall 4 feet high, and 3 feet thick. Around this are several smaller circles, the walls overthrown. Near these remains is a small well in the rock. Upon the higher peak is an immense heap of stones. My view was of great extent, beauty, and variety. The whole of Anglesea verged to the w. with a sublime expanse of sea. To the E., over a rich hollow, appeared the crags of Sychnant, the river Conway, and the hills of Denbighshire. The s. mountains were covered with mist. My guide led me to a little hut, not far from the foot of the mountain, in which I found a barley-loaf." Penmaenmawr abounds with the Crataegus Aria, Veronica spicata, and some say, the nondescript plant, Afaleur pren, the fruit of which resembles a lemon. Among loose stones, near inaccessible rocks, Sedum rupestre, and, in thickets, Hypericum montanum. Mr. Pennant descended from the summit of Penmaenmawr into a hollow, between an adjacent mountain called Penmaen, and proceeded towards Conway, over a sheep-walk. On his way he observed, above Gwdhwglas, in the parish of Dwygyfylchi, a long series of antiquities, consisting of stone circles, various in diameter, great Carneddau, and upright stones. He afterwards entered the turnpike road above Sychnant. On the 1. is a lofty hill impending over Conway Marsh. On its summit is Castell-caerLleion, a British post, surrounded by ditches and strong ramparts of stone. Part of Conway, and a large bend of the river, with its wooded banks, are seen from this descent to great advantage. Between Penmaenmawr, and the second range of mountains to the s., is the noted hollow, Bwlch-y-Daufain. It forms a pass over the mountains, Here are two large unwrought E. of the country, called Llecwez Isaf. upright stone pillars, about 100 yards asunder; erected, probably, as memorials of chiefs who fell in battle; and near them is a great accumulation of loose stones, resembling a carnedd: the flat one, which crowned the apex, is removed. The traditional account is, that these remains were raised by a giant and his mistress. Formerly, the immense promontory of Penmaenmawr afforded only a narrow path, along a shelf on its side, for the terrified traveller to pass. In 1772 application was made to parliament, and liberal assistance granted, for improving and securing this part of the road to Holyhead. Dublin bore a distinguished part in affording aid, by joining in a voluntary subscription. Under the judicious superintendence of Mr. John Sylvester, civil engineer, what had been deemed impracticable was accomplished, and a road formed on the most sublime terrace in the British isles, which will be the admiration of future ages. The road is well guarded towards the sea by a strong wall, 5 feet high, and supported in many parts by deep walls below. On this ledge the traveller winds round the mountain. The vast impending rocks above, the roaring of the waves below, and howling of the wind, unite to impress the mind with solemnity and awe. Before the wall was built, accidents continually happened down the precipices; but since it has been perfectly safe. At some distance, this route appears like a white line along the vast declivity, which is in many places so nearly perpendicular, that a stone may be thrown into the sea below. The elevation of this mountain is 1540 feet above the beach at low water. This pass, were it not for the wall, would be terrific; and, even now, to the timid, who form imaginary terrors, the amazingly abrupt precipice, variegated with fragments and ruins, presents a scene of horror. In some places, rocks of vast magnitude, which have probably fallen from the summit, lodge on projecting ledges, and appear in the act of taking another bound. Several masses of this description are secured by masonry from proceeding further. The protecting wall is nearly upright, whereas it should have been built as an abutment, very wide at the base, and inclining inwards, following the line of descent. After having surmounted Penmaenmawr, the road is continued by a slow descent into a rich plain, checkered with cornfields and meadows, which continue along the margin of the sea, till interrupted by the rugged promontory of Penmaenbach. This little plain, called Dwyg-y-fylchi, is situated in a recess of the mountain: screened from every harsh wind and open to the w. sun, it is characterised by a most luxuriant fertility. One year, in particular, its crop of barley was reaped, and some portion of it ground, on the 10th of July. A striking contrast to this occurs on some parts of the Hiraethog Hills, Denbighshire, where no grain is sown except the hardy oat, of which many fields are as green as a leek in the month of October. Entering a singular chasm, called Sychnant, at low water, the tourist may avoid all further elevations by advancing along the sands, and rounding the w. point of Penmaenbach, over a flat marsh, to Conway. At high tide, however, this outlet is closed. In this case, the laborious ascent from Sychnant must be made. This deep and lonely hollow is darkened by a wild thicket, through which runs a shallow stream. The ascent begins soon after crossing the bridge. At the highest elevation of this hill the road is cut very deep. A continued descent of nearly two m. leads hence to Conway, which is entered through a grand gateway, guarded by a double tower. See CONWAY. From the hamlet or priory of Penmaen is a near and pleasant route to Beaumaris, over the Lavan Sands, which extend 5 m. Poles are set up as marks whereby to avoid quicksands. Approaching the middle of this vast area, it assumes a circular form; and the country which skirts it affords a fine piece of scenery. The objects which compose this grand panorama, taken consecutively, are, first, the promontory of Ormshead; on the r. of which extend the mountains Penmaenmawr and Penmaenbach. From these runs a picturesque skirting, formed into a recess by mountains. One of these, delving into an abyss, is called the Devil's Caldron. To this country succeeds, opposite the sea, another rich scene. Bangor, screened by a woody space running out behind it. of Anglesea appears still farther distant, winding round, bank, towards the sea. Separated by a narrow channel from Anglesea rises Ynys-Seiviol, or Priestholme, which another small channel divides from Ormshead. A ferry over the Menai lands on a pebble beach close to Beaumaris. It is commonly believed in these parts, that the whole track of the Lavan Sands formed once a beautiful valley. At one point lies Thence the Isle like a long low To Bangor, 6 miles. Hutton; Skrine; Bingley; | To Beaumaris, across the Lavan Sands and Ferry, Warner. 4 miles. Pugh. Llanvair-vechan, 2 miles. Pennant. Conway, 9 miles. Pennant; Aikin; J. Evans. ABERAERON. From Kilgerran, 23 miles. Barber; Skrine. From Cardigan, 224 miles. Wyndham. ABERAERON, in Cardiganshire, is a neat flourishing little seaport, pleasingly situated at the mouth of the river Aëron, a stream celebrated for its trout and salmon. The scenery of this vale is particularly beautiful. This, added to a marine atmosphere, retired situation, and improving condition, may render Aberaeron, at no distant period, a place of considerable resort during summer. This place is indebted to the late Rev. Alban Thomas Jones Gwynne, who, in 1807, obtained an act of parliament, by which he built two piers, with wharfs, &c., for about 6000l. Colonel Gwynne is now the chief proprietor of the district, under whose auspices it is rising rapidly in importance. Here are a general post-office, and excellent posting-house and hotel. Near the entrance into the harbour is a bar, which is dry at low water. Here are also places of worship for Independents and Calvinistic Methodists. A school on Dr. Bell's plan is supported partly by subscription From this place the road, bordering the sea shore, becomes more level, and soon introduces the fragments of CastellCadwgan, so called from the king of that name, who erected it in 1148. The bar of the entrance of the harbour is dry at low water. The greater part of this castle appears to have been washed away by the action of the sea. This fort was probably erected by the Normans to cover their landing or retreat, when, in the reign of William Rufus, they fitted out a fleet, and, descending on the coast of Cardiganshire, conquered or ravaged the maritime country to a considerable extent. The situation of the inn is delightful. The road to ABERYSTWITH takes the direction of the coast, and generally forms a bold outline variegated with occasional promontories and bays. In ascending a long hill, coasting vessels may frequently be seen to the 1. From this point too, the mountains in North Wales show their gigantic heads. Cader Idris and, nearer, Plinlimmon are often visible. The former may easily be distinguished by its long ridge, somewhat resembling the back of a horse, the latter by its two conical points. The road, inclining from the sea, intersects a region destitute of wood, but producing good barley, oats, and some wheat. The soil is loamy, with a substratum of slate. Seaweed forms the prevailing manure. The highest elevation of this road commands a view over the whole bay of Cardigan. The natives record a well inhabited country, which here extended, they say, far into the Irish channel, but has been swept away by gradual encroachments of the sea. They also tell of its 100 towns, of which a few poor villages only remain. Returning to the cross-road from Cardigan, pursue it to the 1. crossing the river Aëron. The inn is on the opposite side. At a mile distance pass the farm Cilgwgan; soon after, cross a brook at another farm, called Cilgwgan-fawr. On the r. is Llandewi-aber-arth, a village on the banks of the Arth, where it falls into the sea. The chapel is a good building, subordinate to Hênfynyw, consisting of a nave, chancel, and lofty tower: it is dedicated to St. David, and contains some monuments to the memory of the Joneses of Tyglyn. At Aber-arth cross the river. Half a mile farther, a road on the r. leads to Llanbadarn-Trefeglwys, called also Llanbadarn-vach, in contradistinction to Llanbadern-vawr. The church is dedicated to St. Padarn, and the living is a vicarage, presented by the Bishop of St. David's. This consists simply of a nave and chancel, and contains a monument to Hugh Lloyde. About the 24 m. lies Pen-y-craigddû. A mile further on the 1. is Borthin, stationed at the mouth of a stream; and the road passes through the hamlet of Llannon, 1 m., where are the remains of its ancient chapel, dedicated to St. Non. At the 6th m. is Llansanffraid, delightfully situated on the sea-side. The church is dedicated to St. Ffraid, or Bride, daughter of Cadwrthai of Ireland. It is built in the pointed style. In the interior are the remains of an ancient screen the font is similar to that at Hênfynyw. The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the Bishop of St. David's. Leland says, "There is a chirch caullid Lansanfride, vii miles from Aberustwith, upper to Cardigan on the se side, and ther hath been great building." Tanner says there was an abbey and nunnery at Llansanffraid, in Cardiganshire. At the 7th m. is Llanrhystud, so called from St. Rhystud, to whom the church is dedicated. He was sometime bishop of Caerleon on Usk. This village is situated on the banks of the river Wyrai. Both Leland and Tanner mention a nunnery, but the least traces of such a building are not visible. This place was destroyed in 988 by the Danes, who committed great havoc in South Wales. Castell-Rhôs stands on the estate of J. Lloyd, Esq. of Mabus. In this parish is a dreary morass, called Rhôs-haminiog. The church is an ancient building, consisting of a decayed tower, a nave, chancel, and porch, with some remains of an ornamented screen. Half a m. further is Moel-Ivor, formerly the residence of the ancient families of Gwynne and Philips. It descended by marriage to the Saunderses of Pentre, in Pembrokeshire. David Davies, M. D. of Caermarthen, married the surviving heiress of this house, the great-granddaughter of the last Gwynne of MoelIvor. It is situated on the slope of a hill, and hence named Moel-y-vawr, and is supposed by some to be the same as Llanrhystud Castle, mentioned by Powel, which stood opposite the present house, on the other side of the valley. It was rebuilt, in the reign of Elizabeth, by Jenkin Gwynne. |