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to forego his commons in hall! An odd “Club, nor queue, nor twisted tail, thought came into his head. In revenge, Nor e'en thy chatt'ring, barber, shall avail he determined to give his hair-dresser à To save thy horse-whipped back froin daily good dressing ; so he sat down, and began

fears as follows :

From Cantab's curse, from Captab's tears.'' “Ruin seize thee, scoundrel Coe, Confusion on thy frizzing wait;

The editor of the Gradus ad CantabriHadst thou the only comb below,

giam” regrets that he has not room for the Thou never more shouldst touch my pate. whole of the ode.

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An Ancient Barber. There is a curious print from Heems. a gridiron with a pair of tongs, while kerck, of a barber of old times labouring another friar blows an instrument through in his vocation : it shows his room or a window. These persons are perhaps shop. An old woman is making square sojourning there as pilgrims, for there is pancakes at the fire-place, before which a print hung against the wall representing an overfed man sits on a chair sleeping: an owl in a pilgrim's habit on his jourthere is a fat toping friar seated by the ney. In this room the barber's bleeding chimney corner, with his fingers on the basin is hung up, and his razor is on the crossed hands of a demure looking nun mantel ledge: the barber himself is washby his side, and he holds up a liquor- ing the chin of an aged fool, whom, from measure to denote its emptiness : a nun: the hair lying on the ground, it appears like female behind, blows a pair of bellows he has just polled. A dog on bis hinc over her shoulder, and seems dancing to legs is in a fool's habit, probably to inti. a tune played on the guitar or cittern, by mate that the fool is under the hands of a humorous looking fellow who is stand- the barber preparatory to his fraternizing ing up: another nun-like female sounds with the friars and their dames. The

He says,

print is altogether exceedingly humor. customers, is the foundation of a proous, and illustrative of manners : so much verb.* The cittern resembled the guitar. of it as immediately concerns the barber In Burton's “ Winter Evening Enteris given in the present engraving from it. tainments,” published in 1687, with se

veral wood-cuts, there is a representation

of a barber's shop, where the person Mr. Leigh Hunt, in “The Indicator," waiting his turn is playing on a lute.t opposes female indifference to the hair,

The peculiar mode of snapping the fir“ Ladies, always delightful, and not the least so in their undress, are gers, as a high qualification in a barber,

is mentioned by Green, another early apt to deprive themselves of some of their writer. « Let not the barber be forgoibest morning beams by appearing with ten: and look that he be an excellent their hair in papers. 'We give notice, fellow, and one that can snap his fingers that essayists, and of course all people of with dexterity.Morose, one of Ben taste, prefer a cap, if there must be any Jonson's characters in his “ Silent Wothing ; but hair, a million times over. man,” is a detester of noise, and particuTo see grapes in paper-bags is bad enough; larly values a barber who was silent, and but the rich locks of a lady in papers, the did not snap his fingers., “ The fellow roots of the hair twisted up like a drum- trims him silently, and hath not the mer's, and the forehead staring bald in- knack with his shears or his fingers : and stead of being gracefully tendrilled and that continency in a barber he thinks so shadowed !—it is a capital offence,-a de- eminent a virtue, as it has made him fiance to the love and admiration of the chief of his counsel." I other sex,-a provocative to a paper war: This obsolete practice with barbers and we here accordingly declare the said is noticed in Stubbe's “Anatomy of war on paper, not having any ladies at

Abuses." “ When they come to washhand to carry it at once into their head- ing,” says Stubbe," oh! how gingerly quarters. We must allow at the same they behave themselves therein. For time, that they are very shy of being seen then shall your mouth be bossed with the in this condition, knowing well enough, lather, or some that rinseth of the balles, how much of their strength, like Samp- (for they have their sweete balles where son's, lies in that gifted ornament. We

with all they use to washe,) your eyes have known a whole parlour of them flut- closed must be anointed therewith also. tered off, like a dove-cote, at the sight of Then snap go the fingers, ful bravely, a friend coming up the garden.”

Got wot. Thus this tragedy ended, comes me warme clothes to wipe and dry hum

withall; next, the eares must be picked, Of the barber's art, as it was practised and closed together againe artificially, formerly, Mr. Archdeacon Nares gives a forsooth,” &c. This citation is given by curious sample from Lyly, an old dra- a correspondent to the “ Gentleman's matist, one of whose characters being a Magazine," who adds to it his own obserbarber, says, “thou knowest I have taught vations :-“I am old enough," he says, thee the knacking of the hands, the tick- “ to remember when the operation of ling on a man's haires, like the tuning of shaving, in this kingdom, was almost exa citterne. I instructed thee in the clusively performed by the barbers : what phrases of our eloquent occupation, as, I speak of is some three-score years ago, how, sir, will you be trimmed? will you at which time gentlemen-sharers were have your beard like a spade or a bodkin? unknown. Expedition was then a prime a pent-hons on your upper lip, or an ally quality in a barber, who smeared the laon your chin? a low curle on your head ther over his customers' faces with bes like a bull, or dangling locke like a spa- hand; for the delicate refinement of the niel? your mustachoes sharpe at the ends, brush had not been introduced. The lalike shomakers' aules, or hanging downe thering of the beard being finished, the to your mouth like goates flakes ? your operator threw off the lather adhering to love-lockes wreathed with a silken twist, his hand, by a peculiar jerk of the arm, or shaggie to fall on your shoulders ?" which caused the joints of the fingers to

Barbers' shops were anciently places of crack, this being a more expeditious great resort, and the practices observed there were consequently very often the ubject of allusions. The cittern, or lute,

+ Smith's Anc. Topog. Lond. nich hung up for the diversion of the

Nares Glos.

• Ibid,

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mode of clearing the hand than using a at the door, for a sign or notice to passentowel for that purpose ; and the more au- gers that they might there be bled: doubtdible the crack, the higher the shaver less the competition for custom was great, stood in his own opinion, and in that of because as our ancestors were great adhis fraternity. This then, I presume, is mirers of bleeding, they demanded the the custom alluded to by Stubbe." operation frequently. At length instead

of hanging out the identical pole used in Mr. J. T. Smith says, “ The entertain- the operation, a pole was painted with ing and venerable Mr. Thomas Batrich, stripes round it, in imitation of the real bar ber, of Drury-lane, informs me, that pole and its bandagings, and thus came before the year 1756, it was a general the sign. custom to lather with the hand; but that That the use of the pole in bleeding was the French barbers, much about that very ancient, appears from an illuminatime, brought in the brush. He also says, tion in a missal of the time of Edward I., that “ A good lather is balf the shave," wherein the usage is represented. Also is a very old remark among the trade. in “Comenii Orbis picius," there is an

engraving of the like practice. “Such In a newspaper report of some pro- a staff,” says Brand, who mentions these ceedings at a police office, in September, graphic illustrations,“ is to this very day 1825, a person deposing against the pri- put into the hand of patients undergoing soner, used the phrase “ as common as a phlebotomy by every village practitioner.” barber's chair;" this is a very old saying. One of Shakspeare's clowns speaks of “a The News Sunday-paper of August barber's chair, that fits all,” by way of 4, 1816, says, that a person in Alston, metaphor; and Rabelais shows that it who for some years followed the trade of might be applied to any thing in very a barber, recently opened a spirit-shop, common use.*

when to the no small admiration and

amusement of his acquaintance, he hoistThe Barber's Pole is still a sign in ed over his door the following lines :country towns, and in many of the villages Rove not from pole to pole, but here turn in, near London. It was stated by lord

Where naught exceeds the shaving, but the Thurlow in the house of peers, on the

gin. 17th of July, 1797, when he opposed the surgeons'incorporation bill that, “ By a The south corner shop of Hosier-lane, statute still in force, the barbers and sur. Smithfield, is noticed by Mr. J. T. Smith geons were each to use a pole. The bar- as having been “occupied by a barber bers were to have theirs blue and white, whose name was Catch-pole ; at least so striped, with no other appendage ; but it was written over the door: he was a the surgeons, which was the same in other whimsical fellow ; and would, perhaps respects, was likewise to have a galli- because he lived in Smithfield, show to pot and a red rag, to denote the particu- his customers a short bladed instrument, lar nature of their vocation.”

as the dagger with which Walworth killed The origin of the barber's pole is to be Wat Tyler.” To this may be added, a traced to the period when the barbers remark not expressed by Mr. Smith, that were also surgeons, and practised phlebo- Catch-pole had a barber's pole for many tomy. To assist this operation, it being years on the outside of his door.* necessary for the patient to grasp a staff, a stick or a pole was always kept by the Catch-pole's maneuvre to catch cusbarber-surgeon, together with the fillet o tomers, and get bis shop talked about, was bandaging he used for tying the patient's very successful. It is observed in the

When the pole was not in use the “Spectator,” that—“The art of managing tape was tied to it, that they might be mankind is only to make them stare a both together when wanted. On a per- little, to keep up their astonishment, to let son coming in to be bled the tape was nothing be familiar to them, but ever to disengaged from the pole, and bound have something in your sleeve, in which round the arm, and the pole was put into they must think you are deeper than they the person's hand : after it was done with, are.” The writer of the remark exemplithe tape was again tied on the pole, and fies it by this story :---" There is an ingein this state, pole and tape were often hung Nares's Glossary.

Smith's Anc. Topog. Lund.

arm.

nious fellow, a barber of my acquaintance, in the Horse-guards, sat smoking his pipe. who, besides his broken fiddle and a dryed There was a famous woman in Swallowsea-monster, has a twine-cord, strained street, who shaved ; and I recollect a with two nails at each end, over his win- black woman in Butcher-row, a street dow, and the words, rainy, dry, wet, and formerly standing by the side of St. Cleso forth, written to denote the weather ment's church, near Temple-bar, who is according to the rising or falling of the said to have shaved with ease and dex. cord. We very great scholars are not terity.” His friend Mr. Batrich informed apt to wonder at this : but I observed a him that he had read of “the five barvery honest fellow, a chance customer, beresses of Drury-lane, who shamefully who sat in the chair before me to be mal-treated a woman in the reign of shaved, fix bis eye upon this miraculous Charles II.” Mr. Batrich died while performance during the operation upon Mr. Smith's “ Ancient Topography of his chin and face. When those, and his London," was passing through the press. head also, were cleared of all incumbrances and excrescences, he looked at the fish, then at the fiddle, still grubbing The “ Glasgow Chronicle," about the in his pockets, and casting his eye again year 1817, notices the sudden death, in at the iwine, and the words writ on each Calton, of Mr. John Falconer, hairside; then altered his mind as to far- dresser, in Kirk-street. While in the act things, and gave my friend a silver six- of shaving a man, he staggered, and was pence. The business, as I said, is to keep falling, when he was placed on a chair, and up the amazement: and if my friend had expired in five minutes. His shop was had only the skeleton and kitt, he must the arena of all local discussion, and was have been contented with a less payment.” therefore denominated the Calton coffee

room. His father and he had been in the

trade for upwards of half a century. His It was customary with barbers to have father was the first who reduced the price their shops lighted by candles in brass of shaving to a halfpenny; and when his chandeliers of three, four, and six brethren in the town wished him again to branches. Mr. Smith noticing their dis- raise it, he replied, “ Charge a penny ! use says, “ Mr. Batrich has two suspend- Jock and me are just considering about ed from his ceiling; he has also a set of lowering it to a farthing.” He would bells fixed against the wall, which he has

never take more than a halfpenny though had for these forty years. These are call- it was offered him; and being very skilful ed by the common people Whittington's at his business, and of a frank jocular Bells. In his early days, about eighty turn, he had a large share of public fayears back, when the newspapers were vour, and was enabled even at this low only a penny a-piece, they were taken in rate to gather money and build houses. by the barbers for the customers to read He died about sixteen years before his son, during their waiting time. This custom is who carried on the business. He often handed to us by the late E. Heemskerck, said others wrought for need, but he did in an etching by Toms, of a barber's shop, it for pleasure or recreation, and never composed of monkies, at the foot of which was so happy as when he was improving are the following lines :

the countenances of the lieges. He was “A barber's shop adorn'd we see,

generally allowed to be at the top of his With monsters, news, and poverty ; profession. Some old men whom he and Whilst some are shaving, others bled, his father had shaved for fifty year, And those that wait the papers read; boasted that they were never touched by The master full of wigg, or tory,

another:

: one very old customer regularly Combs out your wig, and tells a story." came for many a year to his shop eres

Saturday night from the western ents Mr. Smith's inquiries concerning bar- mity of the town. His shop was furnished bers have been extensive and curious. He with two dozen of antique chairs, as many says, On one occasion, that I might in- pictures, and a musical clock, and for å dulge the humour of being shaved by a long time he had a good library of books woman, I repaired to the Seven Dials, but they at length nearly wholly dran where, in Great St. Andrew's-street, a peared, and he took up to his house the slender female performed the operation, few that remained as his own share. At whilst her husband, a strapping soldier two different times, when trade was dui.

66

FLORAL DIRECTORY.

he gave his tenants a jubilee on the term This Roman catholic festival is in the day, and presented their discharges with, church of England calendar and almanacs. out receiving a farthing. He left behind According to Butler and other Romish him property worth between 2,0001. and writers," the title of the mother of God 30001.

was confirmed to the virgin Mary" by the traditions of their church ; and her

nativity has been kept "above a thousand Goldeu Starwort. Aster Soliduginoides. years," with matins, masses, homilies, Dedicated to St. Cloud.

collects, processions, and other forms and ceremonies ordained by that hierarchy. Some of its writers“ attribute the insti

tution of this feast to certain revelations September 8

which a religious contemplative had ; Nativity of the Blessed Virgin. St. who, they say, every year upon the 8th of

Adrian, A. D. 306. St. Sidronius, A. D. September, heard most sweet music in 1067. Sts. Eusebius, Nestablus, Zeno, heaven, with great rejoicings of the angels; and Nestor, Martyrs under Julian. and once asking one of them the cause, St. Corbinian, Bp. A. D. 730. St. Di- he answered him, that upon that day sen, or Disibode, A. D. 700. The Fes- was celebrated in heaven the nativity of tival of the Holy Name of the Virgin the mother of God; and upon the relation Mary.

of this man, the church began to celebrate NATIVITY, B. V. M.

it on earth."*

Upon this it is observed and related by the late Mr. Brady thus :

“ A circumstance so important in its nature, and unfolded in so peculiar and miraculous a manner, was of course communicated to the then reigning pope, Servius ; who immediately appointed a yearly feast to give an opportunity for the religious on earth to join with the angels in this great solemnity;' and there have been some contemplations dedicated for this occasion, wherein is unfolded, for the benefit of mankind,' certain circumstances of her sallies of love and union with God,' even before her pious mother St. Anne gave her being! It is somewhat extraordinary, that, notwithstanding the day of the nativity of the virgin was so clearly proved, after having been forgotten for many centuries, pope Servius, when he appointed the festival, did not also honour it with an octave or vigil; for it appears that pope Innocent IV. has the credit of the octave which he instituted A. D. 1244, and that pope Gregory XI. appointed the vigil A.D.1370. At the death indeed of Gregory IX. it was in contemplation to observe an octave upon the following occasion : the cardinals had been long shut up without agreeing upon the appointment of a successor to the deceased pope, when some of these holy men made a vow to the virgin, that if through her merits they could come to a decision they would in future observe

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Nativity B. U. M.

* Ribadeneiro.

No. 41.

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