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gentlemen behind, who accordingly took | by a grave clergyman, we find the two the liberty of forwarding a piece of paper venerable gentlemen with their “ heads to them, on which they had written, not turned,” perhaps in more senses than one, in the most complimentary style, “ Ladies, observing the beautiful gait of the Genoese you are not transparent,” upon which hint girl, walking on tiptoe, with one hand on the ladies had the grace to get down. her hip, and the other holding, under the
Our close observer is struck by the neat- chin, the folds of her muslin veil. • We ness of the better class of women in the both agreed, that we never saw more grace streets; “the majority of whom,” he says, and beauty in person and movement. “wear white stockings, without those dirty Whether two such old fellows are any pantalettes which you see bobbing about judges of grace and beauty, I do not prethe ankles of our women; they have too tend to say. Our wives, some years ago, much good sense, under an affected mod- thought we were." He thinks the Irish esty, to let their clothes draggle in the women would be uncommonly beautiful if mud; but raising their skirts a little, you they had the advantage of dress, but the may see them walking through and cross- beauty of the Dutch women, above all ing the muddiest streets in the rain, and others, seems to have awakened his adnot a speck upon their shoes or stockings.” | miration, and he wishes from the bottom From Paris he writes to the same effect of his heart, that he had known a few soft He hopes to be excused for speaking of a words in their language. lady's stockings; but in Paris new revelations burst upon his mind, and “the most “I think some of them the fairest and handmodest man," he says, “cannot help dis somest creatures I ever looked upon, and made covering that the French women generally of the finest unmixed porcelain clay, Before wear high clocks to their hose, and snaps I left England, I thought the English women instead of quality binding or red tape.”
the fairest I had ever seen-I now consider At the great agricultural dinner at North- Dutch women much exceed them.
them as belonging to the colored races. The
Take the ampton, England, our friend displayed his fairest rose that was ever plucked, with the gallantry with considerable effect.
glittering dew-drops hanging among its petals;
take the fairest peach that ever hung upon the " I sat at the high table, directly under the tree, with its charming, blended tints of red gallery, which was filled with ladies, to hear and white, and they are eclipsed by the transthe speeches.
After the cloth was removed, parency and beauty of complexion of the fair. several beautiful bunches of flowers, which
est of the Dutch women, as I saw them at had been placed as ornaments on the table, re
Broeck and at Saardam. If their minds are mained. I said to Dr. Buckland, who sat near
as fair, and their manners as winning as their me, that I had a mind to hand one of them to
faces, then I can easily understand the history the ladies. Said le, “It will not do ;” and in
of Adam's fall. It was impossible, poor fellow, rather a cynical manner, which disturbed me a
that he should resist. Then their costume is little, added, “such things may do in your
so pretty and elegant. A sort of thin, gold country, but they won't do here.'' Mr. C helmet, fitting close to the head, leaving enough a distinguished member of Parliament, who
of the hair to part gracefully over the brows; heard the remarks, said at once, " It will do a thin, but wide band of highly wrought and do it;" and I immediately took two of the finest burnished gold, extending across the forehead; bunches, and stood up in a chair and presented at the ends of this, some most rich and elethem to the ladies who were nearest to me.
gantly wrought filagree ornaments of gold, Nothing could be more gracious than the man
with splendid ear-drops of gold or of diamonds ner in which they received the compliment,
set in gold, with a beautiful cap of the finest and the whole building rang with applause Brussels lace, covering, but not concealing, from all who witnessed the action. Immedi- the whole head; and all the rest of the dress ately, several other gentlemen sprang upon
of vestal purity; white, tasteful, transparent, their feet and followed my example, in present
with short coats, shoes as bright as mirrors, ing the bouquets near them, and there was a
and stockings of the purest white, and fitting tremendous clapping of hands and cheering the ankle as if they were knit upon the limb; above and below. Lady Easthope says that
with no drabbling train to sweep the pavement, she and Lady Palmerston were those who re
and no oversized shawl, and loose and ill-fitted ceived the bouquets from me."
sleeves and skirts, hanging about the person, like clothes upon an old tree on a washing
day, and you'll have some faint notion of what In the streets of Genoa, accompanied | one of these beautiful creatures is.”
The courteous hospitality of the English | heart sickens at the horrible condition of nobility, the method and exact order of streets and yards, families piled one above their domestic arrangements, the grand another, in houses from seven to eleven scale upon which their estates are im- stories high, without windows in the pasproved, the beauty, affability, and elegance sages, or any light except that which of the ladies, the magnificence of their comes through the opening at the foot palaces and their princely style of living, where door is never hung ;—the bareMr. Colman never tires of eulogizing; but footed and bareheaded people who crowd the splendor with which, at times, his the streets, starving, drunken, ignorant, fancy is dazzled, blinds him not to the dissolute, forlorn. At Dundee lie finds abuses of power, nor to the misery which the condition of the inhabitants more. groans in their midst. The philanthropic frightful still. Hardly, one woman or heart of our traveller bleeds at the desti- child,” he says, “in twenty-I might tution and misery which present the oppo- perhaps more properly say one in fiftysite extreme. • The state of the poor in has either shoe, stocking, bonnet or shaw!; England, and the state of crime,” he says, and I have some doubts whether petticoat " are the most distressing features.” either, and probably are not washed once
in a month. The offensiveness of the "In the midst of the most extraordinary place is beyond endurance." abundance, here are men, women, and chil Indeed, the “land of purple mountains dren dying of starvation; and running along and purple faces,” seems on the whole, to side of the splendid chariot
, with its gilded be no great favorite with our author; not equipages, its silken linings, and its liveried footmen, are poor, forlorn, friendless, almost in its scenery, or its farms and agricultural naked wretches, looking like the mere frag- interest, but rather in regard to its cities, ments of humanity. Is there any remedy for and the Scotch generally, as a people. this evil? I know of no panacea. You must The Scotch farms are described as extennot think, because this misery exists, that all sive, and the farmers wealthy beyond men's hearts are steeled against it. I do not comparison ; their tables frequently covbelieve there exists a country fuller than this ered with silver, and furnished with wines of kind hearts or of charitable establishments for the relief of the distressed. A great pro
of the most costly character. blem is to be solved, and the heart of humanity is everywhere burning with an intense and
“ The farmers here never do the slightest aching desire for its solution.
work, of any kind, themselves, but then, they “I amn often asked, if I like England ? Yes, are thoroughly acquainted with their business, much, very much; but the inhabitants of New and make it as much a matter of study and England, I fear, very imperfectly appreciate calculation as any professional man or mertheir own blessings.
chant does his business. They have none of
their laborers in their houses, and, in most “ London abounds with an incalculable cases, the laborers provide for themselves. amount of misery, which scarcely sees the they live ; at least, we should think it so.
You would be surprised to find how poorly light. The wretchedness of the poor Irish Thiey have oatmeal porridge and skim-milk is beyond all description ; that of many for breakfast, bread and potatoes for dinner, parts of Scotland is quite equal." From with beer, and porridge again at night. They Manchester, in England, he writes thus : cook their porridge for themselves, and I was
going to add, do their own washing, but I am "I have seen enough already in Edinburgh inclined to believe that a Scotchi laborer never to chill one's blood, and make one's hair stand
sees any washing, either for his person or bis on end. Manchester is said to be as bad as
clothes. The degree of dirt in which they live Edinburgh, and Liverpool still worse. Wretch- | in a Scotch bothie is unsurpassed. I have fored, defrauded, oppressed, crushed human na
gotten to tell you how fine the small fruits are ture, lying in bleeding fragments all over the here-gooseberries, currants, strawberries and face of society. Every day I live I thank raspberries. Strawberries were in the market Heaven that I am not a poor man with a family when I arrived, or rather in May, and are still in England."
to be had. They are sold now for about
twelve and a half cents a pint, and the best In Edinburgh, he finds such a popu- Dundee of which ten weighed a pound, and
raspberries for less. I saw strawberries in lation as he had never seen before, and a
one I measured, was nearly as long as my lower degree of human degradation. His I little finger.”
“On Friday, I went to a farm where the sitting on the ground, like Hottentots, farmer pays about $10,000 a year rent, or round their basket of potatoes, eating about £2000, and he and his two brothers, in this, their only food, with their fingers ; the immediate neighborhood of each other, had
whole families huddled together at night, more than four hundred people engaged in harvesting and threshing. I went into a cottage, naked, in the straw, with the pig, the where one of the laborers told me he had lived the ass or horse, and sometimes the cow on the farm more than fifty years, and another in the same
In one cabin he said he had been there sixty years. I wonder found a woman and six young children what our laborers would say to such keeping and a sow with nine pigs, a flock of poulas the Scotch laborers have—oat porridge and try and a jackass, all living together in skim-milk, or buttermilk, for breakfast, a pound
one small parlor.” “ And this,” he exof bread and a bottle of small beer at noon, and supper like breakfast, at night, without lunch, claims, “is a country belonging to the or anything else of any kind, and a shilling richest and most refined people on the per day for their labor.”
globe, not forty-eight hours journey from
London; a country not one-fourth part of Edinburgh does not equal Mr. Colman's which is cultivated, and containing millions expectations. The new town he describes of untilled acres of as rich land as the sun as elegant, but the old city,“ perfectly shines upon.” “ Yet, strange as it may odious--a compound of degradation and seem,” in another place he remarks, "the nastiness.” He hears, while there, a good common people—the men, I mean—are, in deal of the church secession, and thinks some respects, well educated.” In a school that instead of venting passion upon that of one hundred and twenty scholars, he subject, it would be a far more noble act finds, in regard to improvement, everything of religion to spend their zeal and their going on extremely well
, and relates the money in providing for their poor. In un circumstance of an inn-keeper at Killarney derstanding and intelligence, he considers calling in a ragged boy from the street, the Scotch men and women superior to who bore a good examination in Greek, the English, but without beauty and with and recited well in Virgil ; also of another out humor. We imagine he will scarcely whom he met going to school to recite find himself borne out in the latter asser Homer in Greek. tion. Where shall we look for humor, if England and Scotland, in every part, not in the country of Scott, of Burns, and among the lower classes, are described in Hogg?
respect of dissoluteness, as “rotten at the The Scotch snuff-takers are said to prac-core,” but Ireland, in this respect, is made tise a most charming refinement in the an exception. custom of wearing a small ivory spoon, At Killarney, our independent friend with which to facilitate the insertion of received an amusing check to his self-sufithe snuff up the olfactories; and at the ciency. He was going to visit the lakes, hotels an ox-born is found hanging, filled and he wished to satisfy himself that he with snuff, elegantly mounted with silver, could do so without a guide, or any other having a brush attached for general use, aid than a horse and his own wit. though some persons carry a small brush in one of the most public streets, crowded in their pockets to wipe their noses and with market-women, pony-letters, imupper lips at the close of the ceremony. portunate guides, beggars, &c., dc.-a
The beautiful country of Ireland is rob- woman, armed with a large, sharp-pointed bed of half its charm to our feeling trav- shillelah, brought to him a most forlorneller, by the presence on every side of looking red pony, so low that he had squalid want and beggary. “I never only to throw one leg over, and with his met,” he says, “with a more hospitable, feet dangling within an inch of the ground generous and witty people ; but the commenced, or would have commenced wretchedness of the great mass of the his journey; but though two ragged boys population, is utterly beyond description.” pulled at the bridle, and two barefooted It is not hundreds, nor thousands, but wenches, with only the semblance of a millions, whom he has seen living in cab- petticoat, beat and punched behind, the ins dug out of the bog, without chimney, pony refused to stir; so without swearwindow, door or floor, bed, chair or table, | ing, but with looks that he is certain must
hare indicated a terrible ferocity, he was
I do not believe there ever was a happier peascompelled to throw the reins over the antry than the French; drunkenness is entirely creature's head, and sneak into his lodg
unknown among them; and they are preëmin
ent for their industry and economy. I went ings, amid a tumultuous shout of derision,
into one field, with a large farmer, where there of which he says, “I still fancy I hear the
were nearly a hundred, principally women and shrill and guttural notes."
children, gathering grapes, and I did not see Contrasted with such scenes, Mr. Col one among them, whom I should not have been man is particularly observant of the clean- perfectly willing to have met at table, or in liness, the regulation, industry and sobriety, any other situation.” gaiety and happiness of the French. We "I never knew a people where there is so now find him up one hundred and thirteen much charity to the poor ; and as to churchstairs, La Rue Chaussee D'Antin, looking people go before them; and in no places of
going, so far as that constitutes religion, no down upon the moving world of Paris. religious worship have I ever seen more attenThe
gay and social disposition, the readi- tion, more decorum, or more apparent devoness to be pleased with trifles, the laugh- tion. I should as soon think of seeing a dead ing philosophy of the French, are espe
man sitting erect in a chair at church, as seecially congenial to his own cheerful tem- ing an individual in the congregation asleep.
The churches, too, are all free. perament. The French
make some contribution at the door, if you the world made for enjoyment, and our choose, but nothing is demanded.” author thinks “they are right." The re “A very well-informed and most respectable ports he has had of their treachery and American of my acquaintance, who has residhypocrisy, their frivolity and profligacy, ed in France twenty-tive years, in Paris and their abandonment to sensual pleasures, in the country, says, he does not believe that he considers as gross slanders. In all his there is in any country more conjugal fidelity, intercourse, private and public, he pro- this respect, the best French society is a pic
or stronger domestic affections; and that in fesses never to have met with a single act ture of what is most charming in domestic life. of incivility. At the fetes and fairs, in the I have another friend who has been intimate in thickest crowds of the common people of French society for seven years, and he emParis, he finds every individual clean, well- phatically contirms this statement." dressed, well-behaved, and not a single instance of intoxication, rudeness or inde In short, he characterizes the French, corum,
“The peasantry, in this respect, in general, as the best behaved, best contrast strongly with the English and dressed and most economical, most indusScotch.”
trious and most sober people, and at the
same time the happiest he has met with. " I seldom went among a field of laborers in Their notions of economy and domestic England or Scotland, especially if they were women, without some coarse joke, or some in- Mr Colman says, “The English and the
expense appear to differ widely from ours. decent leer; at least, it has happened to me many times; and seldom without being soli- Americans spend lavishly; the people on cited for something, “ to drink your honor's the continent never.” He represents fuel health;” and never, especially in Scotland, as being twice as dear in France as in without finding them sallow, haggard, bare England or America, and yet using fire footed, ragged and dirty. In France, it is the only when absolutely necessary, it costs a reverse; they are well clad, with caps white as snow, or neat handkerchiefs tied This habitual endurance of cold is, no
French family not more than half as much. around their heads ; the men with neat blouses doubt, healthful, and is probably a cause or frocks, and good hats ; I have scarcely ever seen a barefooted or bare-legged woman in of their freedom from catarrhs and colds. they are always tidy; the address even of the cans who go to France, see or know much poorest (I do not exaggerate) is as polite as of French society; especially if they go that of the best people you find in a city; and through England, and become prejudiced so far from ever soliciting money, they have by preconceptions given there. His own refused it in repeated instances, when for some little service, I have offered some compensa
French experiences have certainly been tion ; Count de Gourcy told me again and again, peculiarly happy. Few persons are so that even the most humble of them would con- eminently fortunate as to have no advansider it as an offense to have it offered to them. I tage taken of them in dealing with trades
people--as to have their alms refused in of a letter written by her to the Princess the streets, and to secure a seat at public
Elizabeth. places of amusement by leaving on it his
“ The chapel was erected in honor of these
unfortunate victims of revolutionary madness, gloves or pocket-handkerchief, recovering by Louis XVIII. The bodies of Louis XVI. on his return, seat, gloves and handker- and his beautiful queen were buried here. chief into the bargain.
The ground was purchased by an eminent In Paris Mr. Colman has never seen a loyalist, who carefully marked the spot where drunken man, and at the theatres not the this affecting deposit was made, and converted slightest irregularity, which he remarks is it into an orchard, that the graves might not
very different from the state of things be recognized and desecrated by a mob, whose in London, New York, or Philadelphia."
vindictiveness knew no bounds. It is said
that the loyal owner of the grounds sent every Of the many descriptions of public places, year a bouquet, gathered from the graves of edifices, monuments, chapels, &c., we her parents, to the Duchess d'Angouleme ; an have room to notice but few. Of Fon act most beautiful in its taste and sentiment. tainbleau he writes to a friend, “ If
After the restoration of Louis XVIII. to the have not been there, come back to Paris throne, this chapel was, by his authority, erected at once, and go, or never say you have
to commemorate this spot so full of affecting
associations, but the remains of the king and seen the glories of France.” We extract
queen were disinterred and reinoved to the the description of the Chapel Expiatoire, royal vaults in the cathedral church of St. not only as being less commonly noticed, Denis, the common burying-place of a long but as having connected with it an interest line of French kings and princes. apart from the beauty of its structure. “ The grounds around the chapel, and the ap
proaches to it, are lined with cypress trees,
that everything may be in keeping with the “ The Chapel Expiatoire, near the end of painful recollections inevitably connected with the Rue Madeleine, is well deserving of a it. In the vaults under the chapel are monuvisit. In my opinion it is a perfect gem of art, ments which mark the spots where the bodies and cannot be too much admired for the sim were interred. The chairs in the church are plicity both of its exterior and interior. It is covered with crimson velvet, which seemned to entered by a considerable flight of steps, indicate that it was frequented only by the through a long passage and a vestibule or por higher classes. In the niches of the wall are tico detached from the church, and presenting, several gilted candelabras, and the chapel, with the church, a beautiful specimen of archi- when lighted for an evening service, must be tectural taste and skill. The chapel itself singularly beautiful, and the rays reflected would scarcely contain more than two hun from the statues of marble of purest white, dred people, and may be considered rather as a must give them an extraordinary splendor. funeral monument than as a place of religious worship. It is lighted entirely from above; Mr. Colman considers French preachand the altar within is remarkable for its plain
ing as one of the things immeasurably ness, and is ornamented with the usual furniture of Catholic worship. On the right side superior to the English, which he charof the church, upon entering, in a semicir- acterizes as dull, formal, cold, and unincular recess on a raised pedestal, is a figure structive, especially in the Established of the king, Louis XVI. in marble, of the size Church, where it seems to him to have of life, in bis royal robes, and with his arms but two objects : "one, to fill up the fifextended in the attitude of supplication, while teen or twenty minutes' interval in the a winged angel is supporting bis head. On service; and the other to persuade the the other side, in a corresponding recess, is a people that the church is the church, the statue of the queen, Marie Antoinette, in a kneeling posture, while a figure in robes, sup
whole church, and nothing but the church, posed to represent Faith, is presenting the and that they must stand at their posts to cross to her, to which she seems to be looking keep it up and defend it against heretics, with intense fervor. The angel supporting and what they call infidels. Our author the king is pointing with its finger towards is of opinion that all this trouble is quite heaven; the queen's flowing locks overspread in vain, and that the church is quite likely her shoulders; and this, like every other statue which I have seen of her, is distinguished for to tumble about their ears in spite of it. its remarkable beauty of countenance and ex
“ A few more quarrels,” he says, “among pression. Beneath the statue of the king, on
the bishops, and a few more prosecutions the front of the pedestal, is a transcript of his in courts of law, and their fabric will be will; and in front of that of the queen, a copy / shaken.” The French, on the other hand,