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The courteous hospitality of the English | heart sickens at the horrible condition of nobility, the method and exact order of streets and yards, families piled one above their domestic arrangements, the grand another, in houses from seven to eleven scale upon which their estates are im- stories high, without windows in the pasproved, the beauty, affability, and elegance sages, or any light except that which of the ladies, the magnificence of their comes through the opening at the foot : palaces and their princely style of living, where door is never hung ;-the bareMr. Colman never tires of eulogizing; but footed and bareheaded people who crowd the splendor with which, at times, his the streets, starving, drunken, ignorant, fancy is dazzled, blinds him not to the dissolute, forlorn. At Dundee he finds abuses of power, nor to the misery which the condition of the inhabitants more groans in their midst. The philanthropic frightful still. Hardly one woman or heart of our traveller bleeds at the desti- child,” he says, “in twenty-I might tution and misery which present the oppo- perhaps more properly say one in fiftysite extreme. * The state of the poor in has either shoe, stocking, bonnet or shaw!; England, and the state of crime,” he says, and I have some doubts whether petticoat " are the most distressing features.” either, and probably are not washed once
in a month. The offensiveness of the “ In the midst of the most extraordinary place is beyond endurance." abundance, here are men, women, and child Indeed, the “land of purple mountains dren dying of starvation ; and running along and purple faces,” seems on the whole, to side of the splendid chariot
, with its gilded be no great favorite with our author; not equipages, its silken linings, and its liveried footinen
, are poor, forlorn, friendless, almost in its scenery, or its farms and agricultural naked wretches, looking like the mere frag- | interest, but rather in regard to its cities, ments of humanity. Is there any remedy for and the Scotch generally, as a people. this evil? I know of no panacea. You must The Scotch farms are described as extennot think, because this misery exists, that all sive, and the farmers wealthy beyond men's hearts are steeled against it. I do not comparison ; their tables frequently covbelieve there exists a country fuller than this ered with silver, and furnished with wines of kind hearts or of charitable establishments for the relief of the distressed. A great pro
of the most costly character. blem is to be solved, and the heart of humanity is everywhere burning with an intense and
“ The farmers here never do the slightest aching desire for its solution.
work, of any kind, themselves, but then, they " I am often asked, if I like England ? Yes, are thoroughly acquainted with their business, much, very much; but the inhabitants of New and make it as much a matter of study and England, I fear, very imperfecuy appreciate calculation as any professional man or mertheir own blessings.”
chant does his business. They have none of
their laborers in their houses, and, in most “ London abounds with an incalculable cases, the laborers provide for themselves. amount of misery, which scarcely sees the they live;, at least, we should think it so.
You would be surprised to find how poorly light. The wretchedness of the poor Irish | They have oatmeal porridge and skim-milk is beyond all description ; that of many for breakfast, bread and potatoes for dinner, parts of Scotland is quite equal.” From with beer, and porridge again at night. They Manchester, in England, he writes thus : cook their porridge for themselves, and I was
going to add, do their own washing, but I am "I have seen enough already in Edinburgh inclined to believe that a Scotch laborer never to chill one's blood, and make one's hair stand
sees any washing, either for his person or bis on end. Manchester is said to be as bad as
clothes. The degree of dirt in which they live Edinburgh, and Liverpool still worse. Wretch
in a Scotch bothie is unsurpassed. I have fored, defrauded, oppressed, crushed human na
gotten to tell you how fine the small fruits are ture, lying in bleeding fragments all over the here--gooseberries, currants, strawberries and face of society. Every day I live I thank raspberries. Strawberries were in the market Heaven that I am not a poor man with a family when I arrived, or rather in May, and are still in England."
to be had. They are sold now for about
twelve and a half cents a pint, and the best In Edinburgh, he finds such a popu- Dundee of which ten weighed a pound, and
raspberries for less. I saw strawberries in lation as he had never seen before, and a
one I measured, was nearly as long as my lower degree of human degradation. His little finger."
“On Friday, I went to a farm where the sitting on the ground, like Hottentots, farmer pays about $10,000 a year rent, or round their basket of potatoes, eating about £2000, and he and his two brothers, in this, their only food, with their fingers ; the immediate neighborhood of each other, had more than four hundred people engaged in har- whole families huddled together at night
, vesting and threshing. I went into a cottage, naked, in the straw, with the pig, the where one of the laborers told me he had lived the ass or horse, and sometimes the cow on the farm more than fifty years, and another in the same
In one cabin he said he had been there sixty years. I wonder found a woman and six young children what our laborers would say to such keeping and a sow with nine pigs, a flock of poulas the Scotch laborers have—oat porridge and try and a jackass, all living together in skim-milk, or buttermilk, for breakfast, a pound
one small parlor.”
“ And this,' of bread and a bottle of small beer at noon, and supper like breakfast, at night, without lunch, claims, “is a country belonging to the or anything else of any kind, and a shilling richest and most refined people on the per day for their labor."
globe, not forty-eight hours journey from
London; a country not one-fourth part of Edinburgh does not equal Mr. Colman's which is cultivated, and containing millions expectations. The new town he describes of untilled acres of as rich land as the sun as elegant, but the old city, perfectly shines upon.”. “Yet, strange as it may
“ odious—a compound of degradation and seem," in another place he remarks, "the nastiness.” He hears, while there, a good common people—the men, I mean—are, in deal of the church secession, and thinks some respects, well educated.” In a school that instead of venting passion upon that of one hundred and twenty scholars, he subject, it would be a far more noble act finds, in regard to improvement, everything of religion to spend their zeal and their going on extremely well
, and relates the money in providing for their poor. In un circumstance of an inn-keeper at Killarney derstanding and intelligence, he considers calling in a ragged boy from the street, the Scotch men and women superior to who bore a good examination in Greek, the English, but without beauty and with and recited well in Virgil; also of another out humor. We imagine he will scarcely whom he met going to school to recite find himself borne out in the latter asser- Homer in Greek. tion. Where shall we look for humor, if England and Scotland, in every part, not in the country of Scott, of Burns, and among the lower classes, are described in Hogg?
respect of dissoluteness, as “rotten at the The Scotch snuff-takers are said to prac- core,” but Ireland, in this respect, is made tise a most charming refinement in the an exception. custom of wearing a small ivory spoon, At Killarney, our independent friend with which to facilitate the insertion of received an amusing check to his self-suffithe snuff
' up the olfactories; and at the ciency. He was going to visit the lakes, hotels an ox-born is found banging, filled and he wished to satisfy himself that he with snuff, elegantly mounted with silver, could do so without a guide, or any other having a brush attached for general use, aid than a horse and his own wit. It was though some persons carry a small brush in one of the most public streets, crowded in their pockets to wipe their noses and with market-women, pony-letters, imupper lips at the close of the ceremony. portunate guides, beggars, &c., &c.—a
The beautiful country of Ireland is rob-woman, armed with a large, sharp-pointed bed of half its charm to our feeling trav- shillelah, brought to him a most forlorn· eller, by the presence on every side of looking red pony, so low that he had
squalid want and beggary. "I never only to throw one leg over, and with his met,” he says, “with a more hospitable, feet dangling within an inch of the ground generous and witty people ; but the commenced, or would have commenced wretchedness of the great mass of the his journey; but though two ragged boys population, is utterly beyond description.” | pulled at the bridle, and two barefooted It is not hundreds, nor thousands, but wenches, with only the semblance of a millions, whom he has seen living in cab- petticoat, beat and punched behind, the ins dug out of the bog, without chimney, pony refused to stir; so without swearwindow, door or floor, bed, chair or table, ing, but with looks that he is certain must
have indicated a terrible ferocity, he was
I do not believe there ever was a happier peascompelled to throw the reins over the antry than the French; drunkenness is entirely creature's head, and sneak into his lodg- unknown arnong them; and they are preëninings, amid a tumultuous shout of derision, into one field, with a large farmer, where there
ent for their industry and economy. I went of which he says, “I still fancy I hear the
were nearly a hundred, principally women and shrill and guttural notes.”
children, gathering grapes, and I did not see Contrasted with such scenes, Mr. Col- one among them, whom I should not have been man is particularly observant of the clean- perfectly willing to have met at table, or in liness, the regulation, industry and sobriety, any other situation." gaiety and happiness of the French. We
I never knew a people where there is so
much charity to the poor ; and as to churchnow find him up one hundred and thirteen
going, so far as that constitutes religion, no stairs, La Rue Chaussee D'Antin, looking people go before them; and in nu places of down upon the moving world of Paris. religious worship have I ever seen more attenThe gay
and social disposition, the readi- tion, more decorum, or more apparent devoness to be pleased with trifles, the laugh- tion. I should as soon think of seeing a dead ing philosophy of the French, are espe
man sitting erect in a chair at church, as seecially congenial to his own cheerful tem- ing an individual in the congregation asleep. perament. The French appear to think make some contribution at the door, if you
The churches, too, are all free. the world made for enjoyment, and our
choose, but nothing is demanded.” author thinks “they are right.” The re- “A very well-informed and most respectable ports he has had of their treachery and American of my acquaintance, who has residhypocrisy, their frivolity and profligacy, ed in France twenty-tive years, in Paris and their abandonment to sensual pleasures, in the country, says, he does not believe that he considers as gross slanders. In all his
there is in any country more conjugal fidelity, intercourse, private and public, he pro- this respect, the best French society is a pic
or stronger domestic affections; and that in fesses never to have met with a single act ture of what is most charming in domestic life. of incivility. At the fetes and fairs, in the I have another friend who has been intimate in thickest crowds of the common people of French society for seven years, and he emParis
, he finds every individual clean, well- | phatically contirms this statement." dressed, well-behaved, and not a single instance of intoxication, rudeness or inde- In short, he characterizes the French, corum, "The peasantry, in this respect, in general, as the best behaved, best contrast strongly with the English and dressed and most economical, most indusScotch.”
trious and most sober people, and at the
same time the happiest he has met with. " I seldom went among a field of laborers in Their notions of economy and domestic England or Scotland, especially if they were women, without some coarse joke, or some in- Mr Colman says,
expense appear to differ widely from ours. decent leer; at least, it has happened to me
The English and the many times; and seldom without being soli- Americans spend lavishly; the people on cited for something, “ to drink your honor's the continent never.”
He represents fuel health;” and never, especially in Scotland, as being twice as dear in France as in without finding them sallow, haggard, bare- England or America, and yet using fire footed, ragged and dirty. In France, it is the only when absolutely necessary, it costs a reverse; they are well clad, with caps as French family not more than half as much. white as snow, or neat handkerchiefs tied This habitual endurance of cold is, no around their heads; the men with neat blouses or frocks, and good hats; I have scarcely ever
doubt, healthful, and is probably a cause seen a barefooted or bare-legged woman in of their freedom from catarrhs and colds. France; let them be doing what they will, Mr. Colman imagines that few Amerithey are always tidy; the address even of the cans who go to France, see or know much poorest (I do not exaggerate) is as polite as of French society; especially if they go
I that of the best people you find in a city; and through England, and become prejudiced 80 far from ever soliciting money, they have by preconceptions given there. His own refused it in repeated instances, when for some little service, I have offered some compensa
French experiences have certainly been tion ; Count de Gourcy told me again and again, peculiarly happy. Few persons are so that even the most humble of them would con- eminently fortunate as to have no advansider it as an offense to have it offered to them. tage taken of them in dealing with tradespeople--as to have their alms refused in of a letter written by her to the Princess the streets, and to secure a seat at public
Elizabeth places of amusement by leaving on it his
“ The chapel was erected in honor of these gloves or pocket-handkerchief, recovering by Louis XVIII. The bodies of Louis XVI.
unfortunate victims of revolutionary madness, on his return, seat, gloves and handker- and his beautiful queen were buried here. chief into the bargain.
The ground was purchased by an eminent In Paris Mr. Colman has never seen a loyalist, who carefully marked the spot where drunken man, and at the theatres not the this affecting deposit was made, and converted slightest irregularity, which he remarks is it into an orchard, that the graves might not “ very different from the state of things be recognized and desecrated by a mob, whose
vindictiveness knew no bounds. It is said in London, New York, or Philadelphia.
that the loyal owner of the grounds sent every Of the many descriptions of public places, year a bouquet, gathered from the graves of edifices, monuments, chapels, &c., we her parents, to the Duchess d'Angouleme ; an have room to notice but few. Of Fon- act most beautiful in its taste and sentiment. tainbleau he writes to a friend, If you | After the restoration of Louis XVIII. to the have not been there, come back to Paris throne, this chapel was, by his authority, erected at once, and go, or never say you have
to commemorate this spot so full of affecting seen the glories of France." We extract associations ; but the remains of the king and
queen were disinterred and reinoved to the the description of the Chapel Expiatoire, royal vaults in the cathedral church of St. not only as being less commonly noticed, Denis, the common burying-place of a long but as having connected with it an interest line of French kings and princes. apart from the beauty of its structure. “ The grounds around the chapel, and the ap
proaches to it, are lined with cypress trees,
that everything may be in keeping with the “ The Chapel Expiatoire, near the end of painful recollections inevitably connected with the Rue Madeleine, is well deserving of a it. In the vaults under the chapel are monuvisit. In my opinion it is a perfect gem of art, ments which mark the spots where the bodies and cannot be too much admired for the sim- were interred. The chairs in the church are plicity both of its exterior and interior. It is covered with crimson velvet, which seemed to entered by a considerable flight of steps, indicate that it was frequented only by the through a long passage and a vestibule or por- higher classes. In the niches of the wall are tico detached from the church, and presenting, several gilted candelabras, and the chapel, with the church, a beautiful specimen of archi- when lighted for an evening service, must be tectural taste and skill. The chapel itself singularly beautiful, and the rays reflected would scarcely contain more than two hun from the statues of marble of purest white, dred people, and may be considered rather as a must give them an extraordinary splendor. funeral monument than as a place of religious worship. It is lighted entirely from above; Mr. Colman considers French preachand the altar within is remarkable for its plaining as one of the things immeasurably ness, and is ornamented with the usual furniture of Catholic worship. On the right side superior to the English, which he charof the church, upon entering, in a semicir
acterizes as dull, formal, cold, and unincular recess on a raised pedestal, is a figure structive, especially in the Established of the king, Louis XVI. in marble, of the size Church, where it seems to him to have of life, in bis royal robes, and with his arms but two objects : “one, to fill up the fifextended in the attitude of supplication, while teen or twenty minutes' interval in the a winged angel is supporting his head. On service; and the other to persuade the the other side, in a corresponding recess, is a statue of the queen, Marie Antoinette, in a
people that the church is the church, the kneeling posture, while a figure in robes, sup
whole church, and nothing but the church, posed to represent Faith, is presenting the and that they must stand at their posts to cross to her, to which she seems to be looking keep it up and defend it against heretics, with intense fervor. The angel supporting and what they call infidels. Our author the king is pointing with its finger towards is of opinion that all this trouble is quite heaven; the queen's flowing locks overspread in vain, and that the church is quite likely her shoulders; and this, like every other statue which I have seen of her, is distinguished for
to tumble about their ears in spite of it. its remarkable beauty of countenance and ex
“ A few more quarrels,” he says, “among pression. Beneath the statue of the king, on the bishops, and a few more prosecutions the front of the pedestal, is a transcript of his in courts of law, and their fabric will be will; and in front of that of the queen, a copy shaken.” The French, on the other hand,
he represents as full of life, preaching prac- strengthens, and renders active the great tical as well as doctrinal sermons, and throw-principles of duty, reverence to the Supreme ing themselves entirely into their subject. Being, and love to fellow men.” Ortho
Mr. Colman it appears is, or has been, doxy or heresy are only things for metaa clergyman himself; of what particular physical theologians to quarrel about, sect does not appear. He is quite free and not, to any sensible man, worth the and independent in his observations upon snap of your finger."
” religious subjects, and certainly speaks I hear,” he writes, on another occasion, not too reverentially of the clergy of any “that there is a great noise among the denomination. It is no small affair, he clergy of Boston and its vicinity, and that says, to get through a Scotch service, the the infallible Unitarian body is divided.” prayer being more than three-fourths of He describes the same contest, to be an hour long, and the sermon two hours. going on in London, where he holds himIn the Highlands, it is carried still farther, self as a looker-on, sometimes with amusethe length of the first service being that ment, sometimes with disgust; and winds of two ordinary services, and the second up with this remark, “With all their quarbeing in Gaelic, which, he says, is accom- rels, I only wonder the clergy have not long panied with the greatest vehemence of since thoroughly extinguished all religion.” gesticulation, and seemed to him " the most After leaving France, Mr. Colman traextraordinary splutter one could listen to.” vels over various parts of the continent. The congregation, however, sitting quietly, We find him at the field of Waterloo, at and
many of them going to sleep under the Lake of Geneva, and on the mounall this " hurricane of thunder and light- tains of Switzerland ; on the verdant plains ning,” satisfied him that it was of Lombardy and among the palaces of " powder without balls.”
Venice; treading the silent streets of Upon the divines of Ireland he is still Herculaneum and Pompeii; in the crowd
In his opinion, one of the before St. Peter's, waving his hat and greatest curses of that country is its clergy, shouting viva to the Pope-not, to be sure, “all parties of which,” he says, “are full in his pontifical relation, but in compliof hate to each other, and uniting to op- ment to the greatness and worth of press and crush all systems of education his private character; and in a fit of and improvement, which do not involve enthusiasm actually falling down and the direct extension of their peculiar worshipping at the foot of Mont Blanc. tenets.” After giving an extract from At Rome he witnesses the Pope's celebraprobates of fortunes left by Irish bishops, tion of the Feast of the Assumption, and laid before the House of Commons in 1832, at Florence a Te Deum, celebrated, tothe amount of which, within a period of gether with an illumination, in honor of forty or fifty years, the number of bishops the accouchment of the Archduchess, to being eleven, presents a total of £1,875,000, whom, on this occasion, as well as to his
£ Mr. Colman, in his usual vein of quiet Holiness on the former, supposing both humor, suggests that the use of these events to have, transpired out of kind bishops and the value of their services regard to his own curiosity, our author should be left for those who enjoy such expresses his sense of obligation. In adluxuries to calculate ; adding, "Perhaps dition to these civilities of the Pope and
“ it is only just, as Dr. Jortin says, that the Archduchess, Vesuvius accommothey who feed the sheep should fleece the dates him with one of her most brilliant sheep." Mr. Colman professes to hold to eruptions, and his gratitude and amiability no Jewish Sabbath, or peculiar sacredness become at length so wrought upon, that of one day over another, approving the we find him at Naples, when almost institution as conducive to good morals, ejected from his bed by the fleas, cherand preserving a sense of religion by exter- ishing the satisfactory reflection that, nal forms. He has no complacency with either in the way of subsistence or enjoywhat are commonly called religious people, ment, he can, to the meanest of the aniespecially in extravagance of profession. mal creation become valuable, and keep "That form,” he says, “ is best for any up that bright chain of mutual dependone man which best calls out, expresses, ence and subserviency which prevails as