Fort Marceau, the road crosses the Mosel by a handsome stone bridge, a short distance above its confluence with the Rhine, and enters Coblenz.

The breaking up of the frost is sometimes attended with danger to the town of Coblenz. In the spring of 1830 the ice on the Mosel separated and came down, while the Rhine was still frozen over; and being hurried on by the current pressing it from behind, without the means of discharging itself, was raised into vast heaps near the junction of the river, so as to overtop the stone bridge across the Mosel, and the quays along its banks. Indeed, but for these quays, then recently built, it is probable some of the houses in the lower town would have been injured, as the icebergs were piled up against them to a height of ten feet, and the boats moored in front of them crushed by the weight. The water of the Mosel rose so high as to break over the tongue of land on its left bank, threatening destruction to the village of Neuendorf, whose inhabitants took to flight; and it even floated up the Rhine on the top of ice as far as Boppart! The fields between the two rivers were covered with ice, and all communication by the road cut off.

2 (1.) COBLENZ. Inns: Trierische Hof (Poste), in the great Square. The three following inns face the Rhine: the Giant (Riese), nearest to the landing place of the steamers, is very good and moderate. Charges in 1837, Table-d'hôte 24 S. gr., Tea 10 S. gr., Breakfast 12 S. gr., Beds 21 S. gr. H. Belle-vue ; Trois Suisses, adjoining each other. Those who do not mind crossing the to Ehrenbreitstein will find Das Weisse Ross (Cheval Blanc), one of the best managed hotels on the Rhine. The landlord is a ci-devant

bridge

major in the Würtemberg army.

Coblenz is a strongly fortified town, on the left bank of the Rhine, and right of the Mosel. It received from the Romans the name of Confluentes,

modernised into Coblenz, from its situation at the confluence of these two rivers. It is the capital of the Rhenish provinces of Prussia, and its population, together with that of Ehrenbreitstein, including the garrison, is about 22,000.

The extensive fortifications, now finished, which for some years past have been in progress, connect the works on the left bank of the Rhine with the citadel of Ehrenbreitstein on the right bank, and render Coblenz the bulwark of Germany and the Prussian dominions on the side of France. These vast defences form a fortified camp capable of containing an army of 100,000 men, and are perfectly unique in their way, combining the two systems of fortification invented by Carnot and Montalambert.

The works round the town, external and detached, are the Fort Kaiser Franz below it, on the left bank of the Mosel, which commands the approach from Cologne and Treves. The forts Alexander and Constantine, above the town, on the site of the convent of the Chartreuse, command the roads to Mayence and that over the Hundsruck mountains, and lastly the many-mouthed batteries of Ehrenbreitstein, with some import→ ant works on neighbouring heights, sweep the stream of the Rhine, and the road to Nassau.

The presence of the military and civil government, and of an extensive garrison, the situation of the town in the centre of the great high. way up and down the Rhine, at the point of junction of the roads to Frankfort and by Treves to Paris; its vicinity to the fashionable wateringplace, Ems, and the number of persons daily arriving and departing by coaches, carriages, and steam-boats, render Coblenz a lively and bustling place, especially in summer.

The objects worth notice in the Old Town are,

The Church of St. Castor, on the very confluence of the two rivers

distinguished by its four towers, is remarkable for its very great antiquity, (date 836), and as the place where the grandsons of Charlemagne met (843) to divide his vast empire into Germany, France, and Italy. On the left of the chancel stands the beautiful tomb of Cuno of Falkenstein, archbp. of Treves: it is of the XIVth century.

In the year 1338, King Edward III. repaired to Coblentz to meet the Emperor Lewis of Bavaria, who installed him vicar of the empire in front of this church.

In the square in front of this church stands a Monument, erected by the French in 1812. It is a fountain bearing an inscription to commemorate the invasion of Russia by the French, affixed to it by the French Prefect of the Department, at the time of Napoleon's expedition. This inscription had not stood many months, when the Russians, in pursuit of the scattered army of Napoleon, arrived here on their way to Paris. Their commander, St. Priest, instead of erasing the obnoxious words, contented himself with the following sarcastic addition, which remains to the present time: "Vu et approuvé par nous, Commandant Russe, de la Ville de Coblence, Janvier ler, 1814."

To the lover of picturesque antiquity, the street facing the Mosel, viewed from the bridge, may not be without interest: among its old fashioned houses, the ancient Town Hall, and the original Castle of the Electors of Treves, built 1558, now converted into a manufactory of Japan ware, both adjoining the bridge, deserve notice. One of the first buildings on the left hand, after passing through the archway from the bridge, is the "Stamm Haus" (family house) of Prince Metternich, the Austrian Prime Minister, who was born in it. There are many other seats of the ancient nobility of the empire, as that of the Princes

von der Leyen, Counts Bassenheim, Elz, &c. The Hospital is under the exemplary management of the "Sœurs de la Charité.

One

The principal building in the New Town is the modern Palace of the Electors, degraded by the French into barracks, and now used as a Palace of Justice and Court of Assizes. side of it faces the Rhine, above the Bridge of Boats; the other is turned towards the Great Square, in which the parade is held between twelve and one o'clock, when the band plays. As the Courts of Justice are open to the public in the Rhenish Provinces, the traveller may here have an opportunity, which is denied him in almost every other part of Germany, of ascertaining their mode of proceeding. He will find justice administered by judges in gowns, but without wigs.

On the top of the building stands a telegraph, the first of a line, which communicates a message to Berlin in about half an hour.

The Theatre is handsome within and without, but neglected.

The Cassino, or town club, is of chaste architecture; it has an elegant ball and good reading-rooms, and gardens.

Close at hand is an ancient Convent of Jesuits, now the grammar school. The cellars beneath it are mentioned by the Duchess of Rutland in her tour, and indeed deserve to be visited from their vast extent: they are so lofty and wide that a stage coach loaded might easily drive round them. They belong to Messrs. Deinhard and Jordan, bankers and wine-merchants here, and contained in 1838 about 300 vats of Rhine and Mosel wines, each equal to 7 ohms, or altogether to about 400,000 bottles.

Of late years a very agreeable sparkling wine has been made from the grapes of the Rhine and Mosel ; and the vines which grow under the very guns of Ehrenbreitstein furnish, under skilful management, a highly

Coblenz is a free port, and carries on an active commerce up and down the three rivers, Rhine, Mosel, and Lahn, supplying the country around with colonial produce. From its vicinity to the wine districts, it forms the natural staple place of the Rhine and Mosel wines, going down the river to Great Britain, Holland, and other parts of the world. About a million jars of Seltzers, and other mineral waters from the Duchy of Nassau, are shipped annually from hence. Corn and the excellent iron of the neighbourhood are exported up the Mosel into France. The volcanic productions of this country form very peculiar articles of trade; such are the lava itself in the shape of millstones, and the ashes, or pumice stone, ground to form Dutch terrass: these, as well as potter's clay from the Moselle, bark from the forests of the Eifel and Hundsruck, and stone ware from the district called Sauerland, are much in request in Holland. At Neuendorf, a village on the left bank of the Rhine, a little below Coblenz, the traveller will generally have an opportunity of seeing one or more of the vast rafts which navigate the Rhine (p. 231.); they are anchored here, after having passed the narrowest part of the Rhine, in order that their shape may be altered.

No town on the Rhine surpasses Coblenz in the beauty of its situation: from whatever side you approach, by land or water, it presents a beautiful picture. The views from the centre of the bridge of boats, from the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, of Pfaffendorf, or of the Chartreuse, are all fine in their way, and each has some peculiarity of beauty to recommend it.

The most interesting object in the vicinity, on account of its towering and majestic appearance, for the glorious view of the junction of

mands, and the vast extent of its fortifications, is the rock and fortress of (rt.) EHRENBREITSTEIN (honour's broad stone), the Gibraltar of the Rhine, connected with Coblenz by a bridge of boats. In order to enter it, it is necessary to have permission from the military Commandant residing in Coblenz, which a valetde-place will easily procure, on merely presenting the passport, or a card with the name of the applicant upon it.

This fortress, originally a Roman Castrum, was, during the middle ages, the refuge and stronghold of the Electors of Treves, who, in later times, occupied the Palace (now a barrack) at the foot of the rock, before the erection of their more princely residence on the opposite side of the Rhine. It was in vain besieged by the French in the seventeenth century, under Marshal Boufflers, notwithstanding the celebrated Vauban directed the works against it, and although Louis XIV. repaired hither in person, in order to be the eye-witness of its surrender; but it fell into their hands in 1799, after a siege in which the garrison were reduced to such extremities from want of food, that a cat was sold for 1 florin, and horse-flesh rose to 30 kreutzers per lb. It was blown up by the French when they evacuated it after the peace of Luneville. "Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter'd

It is now no longer a ruin. Since 1814, the Prussians have spared no

pains or cost in restoring it, and adding new works, which have been only recently brought to a conclusion, and it is considered to be stronger than ever. Prussia devoted to the re-construction of this fortress her share of the contribution which France was compelled to pay the Allies after the war; but more than four times that sum has probably been expended on it by the Prussian government. The entire cost of the works on both sides of the Rhine at Coblenz is estimated to have exceeded five millions of dollars. It is capable of holding a garrison of 14,000 men in peace there are only 500. The magazines are large enough to contain provisions for 8000 men for ten years.

The fortress is defended by about 400 pieces of cannon. The escarped

rocks, or steep slopes, on three sides, would bid defiance to almost any assault its weak point is on the W. Here, however, art has done its utmost to repair a natural defect, and three lines of defences present themselves one within another, which would require to be taken in succession by the enemy before he could gain an entrance in this direction. The great platform on the top of the rock, serving as a parade, covers vast arched cisterns, capable of holding a supply of water for 3 years, furnished by springs without the walls. There is, besides, a well, sunk 400 ft. deep, in the rock, communicating with the Rhine : the Rhine water, however, is very unwholesome, from the quantity of vegetable matter decomposed in it.

(1.) Hill of the Chartreuse.. -The view from Ehrenbreitstein is, perhaps, even surpassed by that from the heights of the Chartreuse, Karthauserberg, on the left bank of the Rhine, about half a mile above Coblenz. It receives its name from an old convent, now removed to make way for Forts Alexander and Constantine. It is nearly as high as Ehrenbreitstein, and that stupendous rock

and citadel form the grandest feature of the view from this point; while, by approaching the verge of the hill, the Rhine is seen on one side, with the fortified heights of Pfaffendorf beyond it, and on the other side the Mosel flows at the gazer's feet.

There are many interesting spots near Coblenz, to which excursions of greater or less distance may be made. On this account it deserves to be chosen as a halting place for some days; indeed a week may be agreeably spent here before all the rides and walks are exhausted. Short excursions of half a day are—to the castle of Stolzenfels, on the left bank of the Rhine, on the road to Mayence, p. 250; to the top of the Kuhkopf, the highest hill near Coblenz; to Lahnstein, on the right bank of the Rhine, p. 250; to Sayn, p. 243; and the Botanic Garden at Engers. Tours of a day may be made to the Lake of Laach (Route XL.); to the Castle of Elx (Route XLI.); to Neuwied, beyond Engers, p. 242; to the Castle of Marksburg, p. 250; to Ems and Nassau (Route XCV.). A pleasant excursion of two days may be made to the Baths of Bertrich, returning by the Mosel, and in this short space the traveller may enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery that river preSee Route XLII.

sents.

The

numerous forests around

abound in game, roes, stags, wild boar, and even wolves: the preserves of the Duke of Nassau and Prince of Wied are richly stocked; and they. are known to be liberal in admitting foreigners to their shooting parties, SO that Coblenz is good sporting quarters in autumn.

Hints for making the Tour of the Rhine, above Coblenz. The direct road to the Brunnen of Nassau (Route XCV.) strikes away from the Rhine at Coblenz ; but as a great part of it is uninteresting, and as nearly all the finest scenery of the Rhine is concentrated above Coblenz, and be

tween that town and Bingen, those who wish to explore its beauties will find it far preferable to adhere to the post road running along the left bank as far as Bingen, and there to turn off to Schlangenbad, Schwalbach, and Wiesbaden. In this case it is advisable to make an excursion from Coblenz to Ems, and the castle of Nassau, six miles beyond it. There is an agreeable road (not a post-road) along the right bank of the Rhine, between orchards and vine-gardens, from Ehrenbreitstein to Lahustein, at the mouth of the Lahn. The carriage-road beyond this is very bad, barely practicable for a light carriage; but the pedestrian who follows the Lahn, as his guide, may find many agreeable footpaths and bye-ways at a little distance from its banks, which will lead him among woods and fields through a picturesque solitude, in about three hours, to the baths of Ems.

There is a direct foot-path over the tops of the hills, which would lead from Ehrenbreitstein to Ems in three quarters of an hour or an hour; but it is difficult to find without a guide.

Those who have a week to spare may make from Coblenz the tour of the beautiful Mosel, following the high road to Treves (Route XLI.), and returning by the river in the Coche d'Eau (Route XLII.), or Eiljacht, which ascends and descends the Mosel twice a week. They who cannot spare time to go all the way to Treves will find it worth their while to devote 1 or 2 days to an excursion to Munster-Mayfeld, the castle of Elz, and the village of Treis, situated on the Moselle at a spot where its scenery is the most beautiful (Route XLII.)

The young peasant girls in the country around Coblenz wear before marriage a very elegant cap richly embroidered, with a silver gilt arrow stuck through their hair.

First-rate physicians are Dr. Ulrich,

Dr. Soest, and Dr. Baermann, who understand English. The usual doctor's fee for the first visit is two dollars, and one dollar afterwards. The pharmacy of Mr. Mohr is excellent.

Baedekar, a respectable bookseller in the Rhein Strasse, 454, leading from the bridge, keeps an assortment of guide-books, prints, maps, &c., and is the publisher of the best Travellers' Manual of Conversation, in German, French, and Dutch, which the writer of this is acquainted with.

Steamers twice a day up to Mayence, and down to Cologne; Schnellposts (§ 46.) to Cologne twice a day; to Mayence and Treves daily; to Frankfort, by Ems, Schwalbach, and Wiesbaden, daily.

Schreiber recommends pedestrians to take a bye-road leading from Coblentz to Boppart, through woods and over heights, which command the Rhine. This he describes as both shorter and more agreeable than the high road by the water-side.

ROUTE XXXVIII.

THE RHINE (D.) FROM COBLENZ TO

MAYENCE.

The distance by the post road along the left bank of the Rhine, is 12 Pruss. miles 56 English miles.

Immediately above Coblenz the Rhine loses its cheerful and tame appearance- the mountains close in upon it, and on entering the contracted gorge, extending as far as Bingen, the mind is as it were transported back to the gloomy days of the middle ages. The dark shadows of the mountains, the numerous feudal castles in ruins, frowning upon walled and turreted towns, are the prominent features of its unrivalled scenery, the effect of which is height