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undeserving of preservation, being merely a long range of deal planks upon tressels. Yet there it stood for us, among other strangers, to adınire! On the floor of another hall is the delineation of a plan of Lyon, pearly effaced by the revolutionists, who in fact stripped the Hotel de Ville of its best paintings and ornaments. A suite of the state rooms has within a few years been refitted up in a very good stile. The walls are hung with various specimens of the silk manufactory, some of them extremely rich and beautiful; and the furniture is of corresponding sumptuousness.
In another angle of the square Des Terraux, is the Palais des Arts (formerly the Royal Nunnery of Saint Peter): the court of this cloister is spacious, and consists of a quadrangle of two stories; the lower piazza is completely filled with remains discovered from time to time in different parts of the city. Votive altars, legionary stores, statues of Deities and Emperors, sarcophagi, inscriptive tablets on marble and stone; bas relievos, representing sacrifices, sepulchral rites, and mythological designs; some pieces of tessellated pavement, fragments of friezes, columns, Ionic and Coriņthian capitals, here accumulated and arranged, form convincing proofs of the great antiquity of the city, and also of its magnificence under the government of the Romans. It was our inten. tion to have seen other parts of this museum; but after waiting half an hour whilst Monsieur le Portier went in search of Monsieur le Concierge, we were dismissed with the intelligence that the latter-named functionary was not to be found, and that we must call again. We would have done so bad circumstances permitted: but a certain air of neglect pervading the place, and of inattention on the part of those in charge of it, induced us to wish the Palais des Arts, for the honour of Lyon, under a different administration.*
The houses are very lofty: the streets, with scarcely an exception, narrow and ill-paved. Our day's perambulation finished with a walk through the Place Louisle-Grand, which is very extensive, and contains some of the handsomest houses in the city, inhabited by rich proprietors. It opens eastward to the Rhone, and westward to the Saone. Here was the great scene of butchery after that dreadful siege, when the guillotine proved too slow an engine of destruction to satisfy the impatient blood-thirstiness of perfidious monsters ; and when thousands to whom life bad been promised, on jacobin faith, met their death in this place from slaughtering discharges of grape and musquetry, levelled against their defenceless persons by the patriots of 1793. The name of this principal square of Lyon had been changed from that of “ Belle cour,” to “ Louis le Grand,” in consequence of an equestrian statue of Louis XIV, baving been placed in the middle of it. This symbol of Royalty was of course destroyed during the Revolution; but they are now preparing a suitable pedestal to receive a new cast in bronze, after the original design, which was expected shortly to arrive from Paris.
We visited a silk manufactory.t The operation of weaving is extremely well worth seeing; and the work produced, exquisite in point both of texture and colours. The warp is vertical, the threads of which pass down from the top of the frame through holes in a piece of paste-board, suspended horizontally, and perforated with the design of the pattern. The woof is thrown with a pair of shuttles. They make for all markets-European, Asiatic, and American. The Turkish and Oriental orders are distinguished by their gilding and gaudiness. Those for France and Germany by their simpler taste and superior elegance.
* "The Library of the College contains 120,000 volumes, among which are more than 800 manuscripts.”-Reichard.
+ We missed the opportunity of seeing the mills for the organsinage and winding of silk. “It is at the Hotel de Milan (says Reichard), where millions of bobbins and reels are seen filling and unfilling, as if by invisible lands: the buzzing of these resembles the noise of a cataract.”
From the nature of the climate, added to the circumstance of the place being hemmed in by lofty eminences, Lyon at this period of the year requires the aid of every expedient to mitigate the effects of excessive heat upon the human frame. Accordingly we find the baths numerous and frequented. There is a fine floating one on the Rhone. The establisbment near the Saone to which we were glad after our day's journeying, to resort for a refreshing dip in tepid water, was literally thronged with candidates for ablution. The maxim chacun à son tour was impartially observed; the accommodation good, and the charge moderate.
July 19thAt six o'clock this morning we sallied forth from our hotel ; and crossing the Saone, proceeded to the quarter of Fourvière, on a pilgrimage to “ Calvaire.” We found the streets thronged with “operatives,” trudging out of town, in large and small parties, to enjoy the country, which must have peculiar charnis for the inhabitants of Lyon; their town as a residence (with the exception of a few parts), being as close, dirty, and disagreeable, as the environs are healthy and delicious.Steep and rugged is the way up the mount; yet it ap
pears to be one of the regular entrances; and we met the peasant girls in troops, driving down their donkies laden with milk, fruit, and flowers, to dispose of in the city. The houses on the left hand side of our line of ascent command a noble prospect; they are situated on an echellon of terraces; but the greater portion of the buildings are not worthy of so favoured a situation, and are occupied by a class who bave little or no regard to cleanliness or propriety. There are local features about Lyon that remind one of Bath. But the Montagne de Fourvières, though it may be more picturesque, is not the abode of comfort or gentility as the bill is on which Lansdown Crescent stands.
The Calvary is placed on a conspicuous but not the highest point of these verdant heights, overlooking the city to the east. At the edge of the platform are the usual group of the Crucifixion (Christ between the two Thieves), and the ten stations; beneath them we descended into a small subterranean chapel, in which is deposited an indifferently sculptured object, rendered still more unpleasing to the sight by being painted : it is intended to represent our Saviour's body lying in the Sepulchre. The view of the country from this point is extremely fine. Further back from the brow of the hill stands an ancient sanctuary, formed out of the solid redstone rock. An inscription recently fixed over the entrance, informs us that it is coeval with the days of “ St. Pothier (Photinus), who was sent by Polycarp to be the first Bishop of Lyon.” It is then added, that “in 1562, the Calvinists having made themselves masters of Lyon, devastated this Calvary," &c. As the Reverend Gentlemen have at this period deemed it fit, for the sake of reli
sent our sight by
gion, to remind their flocks of the misdeeds of Protestants in the 16th century, they might, for the sake of truth and impartiality, have gone two centuries further on with their historical references, and spoken not merely of a Calvary desolated, but of fifty monasteries and churches plundered and laid waste in this very city, by men brought up in the faith and fear of the Roman Catholic Church! If this excavation were kept in any things like order, it would have an imposing effect as a place of worship: the pillars short, massive, and round, are formed with elaborate vicety; the vaulting of the roof also has the exact and smooth appearance of masonry. But even on this sacred ground, as elsewhere, slovenliness sets its foot; and, to spoil all decency of effect, has heaped up a lumbering mass of old chairs and the refuse paraphernalia of the sacristy, in full view, behind the very altar and image of Christ !
An hour before sun-set, I again directed my steps to the foot of the hill up which my friend had accompanied me in the morning, and taking a different course, looked into the court of L’Hopital des Antiquailles, said to be built on the site of the Roman Imperial Palace : a finer spot for the temporary residence of Princes could not have been chosen. Having thence continued my walk to the top of the mountain, I entered, during the service of vespers, the very ancient, highly“ privileged,” and numerously attended church of “Our Lady of Saint Thomas of Fourvières." This temple, now so strangely named, stands on the ruins of another dedicated by the heathen Lyonnois to Venus. The restoration of the present edifice, after great damage and spoliation from the revolutionists, is recorded, on a marble tablet, to the honour of Cardinal