clean. He said he understood, and started aft He had only been gone a few moments when a came on our door, and upon opening, a dapper Frenchman walked in, bowing and saying he had sent to shampoo my hair. I told him a man had engaged and had just gone after some things. seemed reluctant to leave, insisting he had bee gaged; but finally did so. The door was hardly when we heard voices in altercation just outside, continued for a time, then came another knock. opened the door, and there stood both men, each insisting he had been engaged. Gusty turned t to know what to do. As I did not understand Fr and she did, I told her to settle the difficulty as she could. She went out into the hall, and ret before long with the Irishman following her, h ing the victorious one. I was ready for him to mence work, but when he produced a bottle with liquid stuff, I said "I do not want that; I want shampoo." He said "This is it, and it will soon I protested, he insisting, and finally I let him He thoroughly saturated my hair, and without even washing the stuff out, commenced ing it. I asked him if he was not going to wa out. He replied, "Oh! no, it will soon dry." I without exception the vilest smelling stuff pos By this time I was too out of patience to do any but submit, and get through with the operatio quickly as possible, determining meanwhile to

mence.

my hair a good washing with soap and water as soon as he left. Gusty persuaded me that it would take so long, if wet with water, to dry, and besides the room was cold. So I let it alone. I will say here that I carried that awful odor all through Wales, Scotland and England till we returned to London, where I finally had it washed out.

The next morning, June 10, we took a carriage for a drive through the city, which is handsome, with splendid public buildings. We visited a few of these, driving by others. We went into St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral. It is a rare thing for one city to have two cathedrals. The reason for this was owing to political and ecclesiastical quarrels back in the middle ages. Christ Church being the older, is the diocese cathedral, while St. Patrick's is the national one. Both belong to the Protestant Church of Ireland. As we were going down the steps leading into the yard of Christ Church Cathedral a number of beggar boys met us and were so very insistant on our giving them money that one of them almost threw me down in his eagerness. Needless to say, they received nothing. We visited Trinity College library. This library contains very rare and valuable old books, among which is the Book of Kells (the Gospel) and said to be the most beautiful book in the world. It is all hand work, beautifully illustrated in colors. These are as clear, lovely, and bright as when first made in the seventh century. As

we entered the building, two gentlemen entered us, and we found from their conversation wi custodian that they were American-Irish gentl visiting their country after an absence of many The old custodian was as proud of his books and old relics as if they were his own personal pro taking the greatest pride in showing them. Li Irishmen, he was full of native wit, and thes gentlemen by their questions brought out this wit which added much to the pleasure of our visit. A the relics, we saw a harp, said to have belong Brian Boru, the great Irish leader in the eleventh tury. In the center of the entrance court is the panile, and on either side of the steps are fine st of Burk and Goldsmith. From here we drove t courtyard of the Science and Art Museum and tional Library. We did not go in. A statue of Q Victoria stands just inside the entrance. We from here to the castle, where the viceroy of Ir resides when in Dublin. We saw the chapel The fine wood carving here was taken from the chapel which stood on this site.

With all its fine buildings, Dublin is full of po ful odors, and the lower classes are uncleanly. had a glimpse of Phoenix Park, driving in thr one gate and out of another. Had time permi we would gladly have taken a drive through, as is considered one of the finest parks in the world. left the city at 1:00 P. M., going by train to Kings and taking the steamer from here to Holyhead.

passage over was as quiet as our crossing to Ireland had been rough, the water being like a mill pond. Gusty was not ill, for a wonder. We had a long wait. at Holyhead for our train, and were on our way to Carnarvon, North Wales.

NORTH WALES

CARNARVON

We improved the time by taking tea-at least did. I think I had cake. Holyhead being on an we crossed to the mainland on the Menai susp bridge over the Menai Straits, changing cars Menai bridge station. From here we saw a bridge. This is tubular and is called Britannia Both of these are noted for their wonderful co tion. Carnarvon is only a short distance, and rived at 7:30, going to the Royal Hotel. After it still being daylight, we sat by the window in parlor (for this is a very little house if it is calle royal name). I called Gusty's attention to a ver cannon being drawn past the house by men and We were unable to find out what was the occasi grew dusk in this little Welsh town, and we reti our rooms and our beds.

The next morning, June 11, we had an early fast, took a carriage and drove to Carnarvon the famous old Welsh stronghold and one of the in the United Kingdom. It was in this in the Eagle tower, so called from the eagle o over one of the windows, high up in the tower the first Prince of Wales, Edward II, was born least this is what the Welsh people persist in s