of the Colorado, and the roads to Salt Lake City, a distance of about 400 miles, are easy and safe. It is believed that the river may be improved so as to render navigation to Callville practicable in a commercial point of view, especially when boats such as are used upon the upper Missouri, and upon the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, are introduced. In the event of success, trade will be made one of large profit, not only securing the transportation of great quantities of silver and copper ores, but of supplies for all of Arizona north of the Gila, for Utah, and for parts of Montana. The merchants of San Francisco, conceding the importance of the river as a channel of trade, have lately held several meetings to encourage navigation, and to call general attention to the practicability of the same. At a meeting of the merchants of San Francisco held September 27, 1867, G. W. Gilmore, esq., submitted the following report of observations upon the Colorado river, chiefly made during the trip of the steamer Esmeralda, Captain Rogers, in November, 1866: PORT ISABEL TO FORT YUMA.-For the whole of this distance the river runs through an open country, presenting on either side wide stretches of bottom lands, covered with vegetation and abundantly supplied with timber, mostly cottonwood, willow and mesquite. The Indians who live along the river cultivate the land to some extent, producing good crops of Indian corn, squashes, melons, beans, tomatoes, and other vegetables. Occasionally a little barley and wheat are planted, which always appear to yield well. About 60 miles above Port Isabel, tule lands commence, extending along the river on either side for a distance of 20 or 25 miles, and back from the river to a great width-on the west shore said to be in places 20 or 30 miles in width. These tule lands are dry enough for cultivation, and hold out promise of great fertility. Above the tules the land is again higher, like that below, covered with vegetation and trees, and more or less cultivated by the Indians up to Fort Yuma. For the whole of these 175 miles the river has a very crooked and winding course, averaging in width probably half a mile; and this average width, it may be here remarked, it retains for the entire distance up to Callville, varied from time to time by bars and bends, or by its passage through mountain cañons and rocky obstructions. The tide ebbs and flows for 30 or 35 miles above Port Isabel in ordinary stages of the river, and for this distance on the flood tide salt water is found. At the rise of water the river will perhaps, on the average between Fort Yuma and the mouth, be five to six feet above low water level-the rise lessening towards Port Isabel. The channel, sometimes on one shore, sometimes on the other, has a width varying from one-eighth to one-third of a mile, and a depth of from four and a half to eight feet. The only obstructions of note in the entire distance to Fort Yuma are two sand-bars, which at times have not over two feet of water upon them, and are frequently, in low stages of water, consequently troublesome. It often happens that these bars are washed away and changed suddenly by the current. In one instance, during a single night, a bar with but two feet of water upon it disappeared, and 10 feet of water were found next day in its place. FORT YUMA TO LA PAZ.-The river continues very crooked, having about the same average width and depth of channel. There are perhaps three bars which may be called bad in low water, though these are frequently cut away by the current so as to have plenty of water upon them. At high stages of water great changes take place in the channel. The banks are of lightcolored adobe soil; they were in some places during last season's unusually high water cut away for a mile directly into the land, changing the course of the river to that extent, but leaving a new channel quite equal to the old. This cutting occurs at bends of the river in the bottom lands, which, as below Fort Yuma, are covered with vegetation and timber; the trees of the varieties already named are suitable for fuel, and are of very rapid growth. It is found that upon new lands formed by the cuttings of the river cottonwood, willow, and mesquite trees will be produced in three years large enough to cut for fuel. Fertile bottom lands extend with little interruption along the banks of the river from Fort Yuma to the Barriers-the first rapids on the river, situated about half-way to La Paz. Here a range of broken mountains approaches the river on either side, and its channel passes between high rocks, which contract it and give it a current more rapid and difficult to make head against than any other rapid on the river excepting the Roaring rapids. At the Barriers there are two channels. The one used at low water is about 100 feet wide at that stage, the current flowing through smooth, deep, and very rapid. The rapids are short, probably 500 yards, more or less. The other channel, used when the river is up, is wider and easier. After passing the Barriers, the mesa, an elevated gravelly plateau, generally barren, nearly up to the river in many places, breaking the bottom lands, and forming the banks for spaces sometimes of half a mile, at others of two or three miles along its course. Occasionally the mesa will form one shore of the river for a mile or two, while on the other will be a fine open bot tom. This mesa, where it strikes the river, is usually 20 to 30 feet above the water. It is never overflowed, and during the mosquito season the Indians live upon it to avoid those insects, which are exceedingly troublesome upon the lower lands. All the way from Fort Yuma to La Paz the mesa can be seen from the river in the distance, bordering the bottom lands, though at times it seems to be 15 or 20 miles distant. The bottom lands prevail throughout the distance of 175 miles, probably covering two-thirds of the way. They are similar to those below Fort Yuma, as before mentioned, and are to some extent inhabited and cultivated by the Indians, whose villages are occasionally seen along the river shore. Trees are quite abundant for most of the distance, and plenty of fuel to be had. Fuel cut by the Indians is not very good, as they usually take only dead trees or driftwood, instead of cutting live trees and piling the wood to dry. Driftwood upon the lower river is mostly of the lighter woods that grow there; while upon the upper waters it is of wood having good substance for fuel. Above the Barriers is the well-known rancho of William Rhodes, extending 16 miles along the east bank of the river. The land is cultivated to a small extent, and sustains large numbers of cattle which thrive remarkably well. LA PAZ TO MOHAVE CAÑON.-The character of the river is a little changed in these 100 miles. It has a width of from one-eighth to one-third of a mile, and a depth ranging from four and a half to eight feet, with occasional bars having, say, 30 inches of water upon them. It is much less crooked than below. There is generally a good wide channel with a pretty rapid current, and occasionally a short bend which, at high water, will cause a powerful eddy, a little dangerous for a steamboat of insufficient power. There is, however, no broken water, and no dangerous rocks are to be found. The valley described in the last section extends, with little change of character, up to Mohave cañon. About 30 miles above La Paz the Chimahueva mountains approach to within a couple of miles of the shores of the river, with a fine open country lying about their base. In these mountains are copper mines which promise to become very productive whenever work upon them, now suspended, shall be resumed. After passing Williams Fork, situated about 80 miles above La Paz, there is a distance of 18 or 20 miles to Mohave cañon, through which the river passes, cutting its way for eight or nine miles through a high range of mountains; flowing partly between immense precipices of rock, rising nearly perpendicular from its sides, and partly between masses of broken rocks and mountains. The chan. nel, however, is of good width and depth, free from dangerous rocks, and with deep water close up to the rocky shores, against which a steamboat's guards will touch while the hull is in clear water, free from projecting points of rock. This feature is constantly to be observed upon the Colorado in places where it passes between shores of rock, and is a most favorable circumstance for steamboat navigation. MOHAVE CAÑON TO HARDYVILLE.-Above the cañon the valley again presents itself, differing little in character until reaching Fort Mohave, about 30 miles above. For this distance the bottom lands prevail, bordered in the distance by the mesa, which occasionally comes up and skirts the river for short distances and then again recedes, leaving long, wide stretches of low lands covered with vegetation, and producing the same timber as that found lower down the river. Upon the east side of the river a few Mohave Indians are scattered; on the west, a small number of the Chimahueva tribe. There is a great deal of fine farming land lying between the cañon and the fort, some of which is already occupied by Americans. Here was located the Philadelphia rancho, occupying several miles along the east side of the river. Of this rancho a large part has been washed away and lost by the cutting out of the river during the past two seasons. After passing Fort Mohave the shores change. Low mesas, producing a little vegetation, form the banks upon both sides of the river, except when occasionally broken by small bottoms of good land, some of them occupied by a few Indians. Scarcely any timber is seen upon the river from the fort up to Cottonwood island. What little formerly grew upon this part of the river has been mostly cut off. For the 60 miles from Mohave cañon to Hardyville there is nothing serious to impede navigation. The river is much straighter than in the lower parts, and has no sharp bends and no bad bars. In some places a strong current is encountered, but there is nothing to stop a steamboat. The average width of the river continues about half a mile. The channel in width and depth is about the same as that described in the lower part of the river. HARDYVILLE TO COTTONWOOD ISLAND.-The shores continue of low mesas on each side. There is very little timber to be seen. Here and there is a small opening of arable land, breaking the line of the mesa. A few Indians of the Mohave and Chimahueva tribes are found upon the banks. The country generally presents a poor and barren aspect, but in a few places upon the small bottoms farms might be cultivated. A trifling amount of firewood can yet be had upon this portion of the river. For this distance the river may be said to be quite straight. Its bends are long and easy, and it offers every facility for navigation. The few bars found have sufficient water upon them even at low stages. Some places are to be passed where there is a quick current, but there is no obstruction to navigation until the head of Cottonwood island is reached. At this place there is a sand-bar upon which the depth of water frequently changes, and which is said might sometimes in low water prove troublesome. When the Esmeralda crossed it there were five feet of water upon it, and that at a low stage of the river. The river continues about half a mile in average width, and the channel about the same in depth and width as in the lower river-ranging say from four and one-half to eight feet deep in most places. Cottonwood island, about 10 miles long by an average of about three miles wide, is a fine, level island, fertile and covered with grass, and having considerable timber. Claims are said to have been located upon the land, but it is yet unoccupied. On the main land on both sides of the river opposite Cottonwood island are fine bottom lands, with good grass. A large quantity of driftwood of superior kind for fuel, composed mainly of pitch-pine and cedar, every year lodges at the head and along the sides of the island-sufficient, perhaps, alone, if taken care of, to furnish the fuel for years to steamboats passing on the Callville route. An immense quantity of this wood was upon the island, estimated at several thousand cords. The entire head of the island seemed to be formed of trunks of trees and sand washed in between them. The driftwood consists of trees, much broken up, of various sizes, not usually exceeding 14 inches in diameter. COTTONWOOD ISLAND TO CALLVILLE. In these 60 miles are found the following points of interest: Round island, four miles above Cottonwood island. El Dorado cañon, five or six miles above Round island... The cave, five miles from El Dorado cañon.... Roaring rapids, two or three miles above the cave.. 10 miles. 66 60 From Cottonwood island to Round island, (four miles,) there is nothing serious to impede navigation. The channel is good, though occasionally some "strong water" is met with. At the point where El Dorado cañon empties into the Colorado, (five miles above Round island,) mountains and high broken lands commence, and continue to border the river until the Black cañon is passed, a distance of probably 28 or 30 miles. From Round island to El Dorado cañon, (five or six miles,) the channel continues good, and without obstruction, except occasional "swift places" of no great moment. After passing El Dorado cañon, and until Roaring rapids are reached, (a distance of about eight miles,) the channel continues good, with smooth water, but a quicker curient. No impediment is found here that could be at all serious in any stage of the water until arrival at the famous Roaring rapids. These rapids are caused by bars, composed of rock, gravel, and boulders, which make out obliquely from each side of the river toward the centre. The current striking these bars is deflected with a strong swell or roll from each bank towards the middle of the channel. These swells cause the water to break where they meet, and the water has then a straight rapid shoot down the contracted channel in the middle of the river. With the lead no bottom could be found in the rapids. The water appeared very deep, probably as much as 30 feet. The rapid water may be altogether 500 yards in extent, but of this the great obstruction is found in only 200 to 300 feet; there the straight rapid shoot above described is located. In these 200 to 300 feet the descent of the water is plainly perceptible to the eye. By the use of a water-level it was found to fall in the neighborhood of four feet in the distance named. There is a rock here standing about five feet out of water, which is probably covered when the river is high, but is easily avoided, and in fact it would be difficult to run upon it, as the swell and the course of the current would set a boat away from it. To pass the 200 to 300 feet of rapid broken water described, the Esmeralda placed a ringbolt in the rocks above, (the only ring-bolt used on the trip,) and ran a line 800 feet in length to it. This line was taken to the steam capstan on the single purchase, and the steamboat was run up the 800 feet to the ring-bolt in seven minutes easily, and without apparent strain. For perhaps three-fourths of the 800 feet the steamboat slowly backed her wheel to keep her head right. ་ After running the Esmeralda up, the line was taken to the loaded barge, which was hauled up in about 30 minutes, using the three-fold purchase upon the capstan. At this time the river was at a low stage, probably nearly as low as it usually gets. From Roaring rapids to Black cañon, (about 20 miles,) there are a number of rapids. Of these only three are of any consequence, and in them the water scarcely breaks at all. At the rapids the shores were always rocky, but there was ample width in the channel to clear all rocks, which were generally above water. Explorers' rock, situated in this portion of the river, is near mid-channel, and is seldom or never seen above water. Its position, however, is well known, and there is little danger from it, as there is about 100 feet of clear channelway on either side of it, and the river uns with a still slow current. Black cañon, from its entrance to its termination, is from 8 to 10 miles in length. In the cañon the river has an average width of perhaps 200 feet. It is here a still deep stream, flowing smoothly, but not very rapidly, between bold rocks, which, for a large part of the way, rise in precipitous walls to an immense height above the water. The channel is free from rocks from shore to shore, and has no sudden or short turns. The Esmeralda towed the barge through the cañon, not running a line more than once or twice, and that only to save fuel. Leaving Black cañon, the country again becomes open, with occasional bottom lands and grass on either side, up to Vegas Wash, six or eight miles distant. The river resumes its average width of about half a mile; it runs with smooth water, but a strong current, to make head against which the Esmeralda constantly run lines. The lines were, however, only used to economize fuel, which must have been freely used to propel the boat against the quick current. Only the single capstan was used. No bars or rapids were found between Black cañon and Vegas Wash. The channel was in width and depth about equal to that of the lower river. A small tribe of Indians live along the banks of the river. From Vegas Wash to Callville, (12 to 15 miles,) the Colorado has a smooth slack current, and plenty of water. The country along the river is mostly mesa and sand, but with considerable land that seemed fit for cultivation. A few Indians are living upon this section. There is scarcely any timber growing from Black cañon to Callville, (what was seen was willow and mesquite,) but a little drift-wood lodges along the banks for the whole distance. Besides what the Esmeralda used, she left about enough of this drift-wood for one more trip up. Nothing was seen of the Colorado above Callville. Information obtained showed that a steamboat might possibly be taken up, with difficulty, to a point 30 miles higher, but that there, owing to the crooks in the river, she would be but eight miles distant in a straight line by land from Callville. Mr. Smith, the Mormon agent, stated that three men, at different times, and each ignorant of the other's proceedings, had been sent by Brigham Young from Salt Lake, to examine the river and adjacent country; and that each had separately reported that Callville must be the head of navigation. THE CAVE. Two or three miles below Roaring rapids, and in sight of them, the river at a bend strikes the face of a steep rocky mountain. The action of the water has here scooped or hollowed out a very remarkable cave, about 70 feet in width at its entrance, extending directly into the rock for about 200 feet, and having a height of perhaps 50 or 60 feet. The current setting into and out of this cave carries in and deposits sufficient drift-wood to keep it full to extreme high-water mark. When the Esmeralda stopped here for wood it was found piled in to the height of 20 feet above the then stage of water, filling the cave to about that height for nearly the whole extent. It is supposed that if the cave were cleared out every year, it would be filled afresh by the season's drift. If this be so, it will be readily understood how valuable the cave may become to a steamboat line to Callville. There are high grounds near by upon which the wood, when taken out, could be safely piled. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS UPON THE RIVER, &C.-The average current of the Colorado at ordinary low stages, where no contraction or special obstruction exists, may be about three and a half miles per hour. At high water it is of course more rapid. Against such a current the Esmeralda, when under way, towing a loaded barge, would make about 40 miles per day from poiut to point, running only during daylight. When regular navigation is established boats will undoubtedly run day and night, except that when reaching any difficult place at night it may be necessary to wait for daylight, to pass. At least this will be the case for the greater part of the passage to Callville, say from Port Isabel to El Dorado cañon, distance about 350 miles. Whenever steamboats get to running frequently and regularly, the constant stirring of the sand upon the bars will, it is believed, keep them washing away, so that a good depth of water may always be found upon them. A steamboat for the Callville trade should have an 18-inch cylinder, draw not over 20 inches, and be not over 140 feet in length, with a large stern wheel. A boat like this would go from Point Isabel to Callville, with a barge in tow carrying 200 tons of goods, in 14 days, running only by daylight, at almost any stage of the river. When boats of this description are placed upon the river, the trips will be made with the same regularity and certainty as on the rivers of California. Up to this time there has never been a suitable boat on the Colorado. All are deficient in power and size, and some draw too much water. The Indians living along the whole length of the river are friendly and peaceable. OTHER STATEMENTS.-At the same public meeting, R. G. Sneath, esq., of San Francisco, said he believed that freight could be put down at Callville for four cents per pound, and that a chance was now offered to supply 125,000 to 130,000 people with the necessaries of life, and they ought to take advantage of it. In answer to question put by the chairman, he said that he believed that it would take from 30 to 60 days to run a cargo through to Callville. It would have to be transhipped at the mouth of the river, and it might be well to transfer it again to a powerful boat below the rapids. Captain Rogers said, as far as his knowledge went. there was no particular trouble in navi gating the river. There was a scarcity of wood for 50 miles below Callville, but the Mormons told him that there was a mountain at the back of that place where there was plenty of wood, which could be obtained at reasonable rates, say about $7 per cord. Wood could be procured the whole length of the river for from $3 to $4 per cord, and by cutting it themselves, for us. He thought that when proper arrangements were perfected the trip could be made inside of 15 days. The expense of running a steamer was less there than here; it did not cost nearly so much on the Colorado as on the Sacramento river. Labor and wood were cheaper there. They pay $50 per month to men on the Sacramento, and on the Colorado only $25; they pay $6 per cord for wood on the former river, and only $3 on the latter. Captain Rogers, in answer to questions, said that the currents were stronger and not so regular, on the Colorado, than on the Sacramento, but there was deeper water on the former. There were no sand-bars to speak of above Fort Mohave, and the river was not practically more difficult to navigate than the waters of the upper Missouri.. He had no doubt in the world that it would prove the best paying institution on the coast; it would certainly pay better than the Sacramento river.* ores. SECTION IV. CENTRAL ARIZONA. It was not until 1862 and 1863 that an attempt was made thoroughly to explore Central Arizona. Whipple and Beale had crossed by the 35th parallel; Aubry and Leroux had seen something of the Salt and Verde rivers, the chief northern tributaries of the Gila; but no one had attempted more than a hurried passage through the country, although all believed it to be rich in the precious Late in 1862, or early in 1863, Powel or Pauline Weaver, a noted mountain man, who had crossed Arizona by the Gila as early as 1832, was attracted by the placers at La Paz to look for others in the interior of the country, and started with a party of men for exploration. He found what have since been known as the Weaver diggings, near Antelope Hill and the town of Weaver, some sixty miles south of the present town of Prescott. About the same time Joseph Walker, another well-known and veteran pioneer, arrived at Pima Villages with a party of gold hunters, and determined to go north to see what the unexplored country, from which the Indians had often brought fabulous reports, really contained in the way of precious metals. This party discovered and ascended the Hassyampa, one of the main streams of Central Arizona, which has its rise about ten miles southeast of the town of Prescott, and runs nearly south until it sinks in the desert some twelve miles below the town of Wickenburg. Part of the Walker party went to the Weaver diggings, where on the top of Antelope Hill, in a most remarkable position, Mr. Snelling discovered a *Although the description given of the Colorado river in the above report is substantially correct so far as relates to its general features, the difficulties of its navigation are considerably underrated. It should be borne in mind that these representations are made by parties interested in getting up a scheme to secure the Utah trade. So far from the depth of water being greater on the Colorado than on the Sacramento, my own experience from Fort Mojave to Fort Yuma, and all the testimony I have been enabled to gather on the subject, furnish direct proof to the contrary. The depth at the ordinary low stage on the Colorado is not more than two and a half feet on the bars. In January, 1865, the Cocopah, under command of Captain Robinson, one of the most experienced pilots on the river, was nearly two months making the trip from Fort Yuma to Fort Mojave, and the draught of this boat was not over 24 inches. She was compelled to transfer all her freight to barges after passing La Paz. On the return trip from Fort Mojave to Fort Yuma, without any freight whatever, she took nine days to make a distance of less than 300 miles down stream. The great difficulty arises from the constant shifting of the channels, caused by the caving of banks, deposits of sand in new places, and consequent changes in the direction of the current. It is a peculiarity of the river that any improvement made in the way of dams, wings, or weirs must, from its very nature, be of temporary benefit. The natural laws which govern this stream are constantly in operation. New caves in the alluvial banks throw the current out of the existing channels; and even where this cannot occur, there are always new deposits of sand made at their lower extremity, thus creating new obstacles. The Roaring Rapids form an almost insuperable barrier to navigation beyond that point, but it would be less difficult to make a permanent improvement there, where the banks are rocky, than in the long stretches of the river below, where the banks are composed of sand. It certainly requires something more than the unsupported statement of an interested party, however reliable, to justify the assertion that the Colorado is superior to the Sacramento as a navigable stream, or that it can ever compete with the latter river in the extent or value of its trade. There is neither the population nor the natural facilities to justify such a conclusion. Small steamers may possibly be constructed to navigate the Colorado to greater advantage than those now in use, but I am clearly of opinion that no extensive trade will euer be carried on with Salt Lake City by the way of Callville.-J. R. B. 1 |
