GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

ON

FASHION AND DRESS.

In order to supply the votaries of Fashion with every new invention that taste and fancy can devise, a few of the most eminent Marchandes de Modes have quitted the metropolis, and repaired to those places whereto beauty is led by the hand of prudence to the abodes of health on the shores of the ocean. Amongst these priestesses of the toilette may first be classed one of the most elegant of the profession from St. James's-street, and who purposes, we believe, to make her marine excursions as versatile as that fancy for which she is so justly famed: of this we are assured, that several amongst the higher classes, now stationed at the different watering places, are anxiously awaiting her arrival, before they fix on some important articles of female attire. We here, we are well assured, need not name the inventress of the Circassian and Armenian corsettes, the new court hoop, Meinengen corsage, &c. &c.

The continued warmth of the weather renders yet the muslin pelisses and spensers to be almost universally adopted: some of the latter are of clear book muslin, trimmed with very full trimmings of muslin, richly embroidered at the edge. Scarf shawls, mantles, and sarsnet wraps are only seen on evenings, when returning from the rooms or from crowded parties.

Bonnets for the carriage are of white satin, crowned with damask roses, or made transparent of fine net, almost covered in alternate stripes, crosswise, of French white satin ribband: these bonnets are generally crowned with hollyhock blossoms: but nothing can be more admired, or more deserving admiration, than the Cambridge dress hat of pale pink satin, embroidered in cockleshells, in thread straw, and finished by a full plume of white ostrich feathers: this elegant hat is partially turned up in front. For walking, the Cheltenham bonnet of marine striped straw, with a simple ornament of white roses, or a large Leghorn, with little trimming except blond and ribband, are reckoned most fashionable, and are very universally adopted.

Next to the dinner dress, represented in

our Print, is another for the same purpose of fine Decca muslin, striped, and embroidered in a small pattern between the stripes; the border is ornamented with three rows of muslin bouilloné, run through The with rose-coloured satin ribband. Catalonia dress is worn at friendly dinner parties; it is of fine cambric, embroidered all over in crescents or very small sprigs, and is finished by three flounces of open embroidery, and at the head of the upper flounce is a row of the same open kind of work. For morning walking dresses, printed muslins, with borders to correspond, and above the border two flounces of plain muslin, scalloped with the colour of the pattern, are at present in favour; but this is one of those ephemeral fashions that soon vanish, and are scarce worth recording, excepting that they find employment for the loom in the charm of variety.

Mrs. Bell, whom we have cited above, has, amongst her novelties, some very superb ball dresses, the newest of which are the harvest frocks; some of these have a beautiful border of wheat ears, actually worked in straw on fine net, and others are adorned with a rich border of corn poppies, which produces, certainly, the most beautiful effect by candlelight. These dresses are worn over white satin slips, with a Meinengen corsage of a correspondent colour to the border.

Never were caps so universal; and in this the English ladies do wisely an ardent sun, particularly when accompanied by breezes from the sea, has often a sudden effect in changing the colour of the hair. Among the new cornettes is the fan cornette à-la-Comtesse, so called from the front being spread out like a fau; youth and loveliness are certainly requisite to render this head-dress becoming. The breakfast cornette, of fine thread net and Brussels lace, simply finished by rouleaux of lilac satin, is a very becoming deshabille to every face: and a lighter kind of Madras turban, worn as a home costume, is an improvement of a fashion that has lasted much longer than we predicted, it is of plaid gauze, the colours of a light and appropriate kind for summer.

The favourite colours are Clarence blue, rose colour, and lilac.

Cabinet of Taste;

OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN

COSTUME.

By a Parisian Correspondent.

COSTUME OF PARIS.

I AGREE entirely with you, that, in some instances, the characters of the French are totally changed. Party and passing events seldom now give titles to the different ar ticles of female dress; and this mania has been gradually sinking away since the guillotine lockets, broaches made of Bastille wood or stone, Marat's blood beads, &c. &c.; things are now called by their right names, fashions described as plainly as possible, and, to use an English phrase, you "beat us all hollow" with the elegant titles you give to a cornette, a coloured body, &c.

&c.

I must not forget, however, to tell you in our homespun, plain way, what are the most prevalent fashions now in Paris. For out-door costume, cambric pelerines are most in favour; they are trimmed with muslin, and a ruff is worn with them, broad hemmed, and made up in very full plaits. Canezon spensers are also much worn in the public walks; and these, like the pelerines, are seldom the same as the dress.

colours, or of poppies, deep coloured red carnations, larkspur, and other flowers most in season. Leghorn hats have wreaths of ripe corn laid in bias across the crown: and bunches of flowers, brought very near the edge of the brim, are a favourite ornament on all hats; these bunches are formed of pinks, roses, Indian pinks, jessaminė, mignionette, honeysuckles, and geraniums, all mingled together; others of musk-roses, guilder-roses, larkspurs, wild poppies, and pomegranate blossoms.

Printed cambric gowns are yet very fashionable; they are either striped or spotted, and are oftenest trimmed with rows of muslin bouilloné; and muslin gowns, printed in small chequers of pink, are in high favour: but for the dress promenade, or the public gardens, nothing is so fashionable as white, with flounces the same as the dress, which, if muslin, are laid on in very full plaits; with these white dresses are worn sashes of tartan plaid ribbon: if the Canezou body worn with this dress is of the same material, it is made open in front, with a plain frock stomacher to supply the opening; and a clear muslin fichu generally finishes the dress. Gowns of India dimity, with flounces embroidered in different colours, and rows of coloured embroidery between each flounce, is a novelty much admired; and with this is worn a hat to correspond in colours. Letting-in of lace is now a favourite way of ornamenting the borders of gowns, either of cambric or mus

seven very small tucks.

Carriage hats are now often made of futed net and straw, intermingled; rosecoloured crape hats are also much in favour, as are hats of white gauze, ornamented with marabout feathers, though some ladies pre-lin, between the rows of which are six or fer a bunch of roses, daisies, and lauristinas: transparent bonnets, ornamented with satin rouleaux, at the edge, of rose-colour or white, are also a favourite carriage head. dress; as are bats of tulle, with sweet pease embroidered on the tulle; this is a beauti-behind; and many a fine head of hair is ful, but very expensive article. The brims of all hats are worn much extended; and down feathers are reckoned more elegant than flowers.

Straw hats are most in favour for walk ing; they are turned up behind, ù-la-Fanchette, and the hats are placed rather forwarder than before. Hats of the new cotton straw manufacture are generally ornamented at the edges with a cordon of small white roses; and a bunch of pinks, of a celestial blue colour, are placed ou the crown, or a bouquet of daisies of various

Young ladies continue to go without caps, with their hair arranged in very fall curls, à-l'Enfant. This head-dress, so very infantine, requires the hair to be cut short

sacrificed to a fashion, often too youthful for the wearer. The cornettes, turbans, and dress hats have undergone but little alteration since my last accounts, except that the former is seldom ornamented with flowers now, but is worn merely as a deshabille; and a hat is generally put on when a lady dresses for the day, for she seldom means to stay at home; this hat, however, is various, according to circumstances, as above described a turban is generally worn for evening dress parties, and the first night of a new play.

DESCRIPTION OF A YOUNG MOGUL

BEAUTY, &c.

HER age did not exceed fifteen; her form was perfect, her features regular, and her large antelope eyes of a brilliant lustre. Although fairer than the generality of Indian females, neither the rose nor the lily adorned her complexion; yet the brunette tint rather enriched than impaired the softness and delicacy of her skin; “grace was in all her steps," and her whole deportment elegant and courteous. This young beauty excelled in personal charms, but||| was not so superbly dressed as her friend, whom I hastily sketched as a specimen of a well-dressed Mogul.

Her drawers, of green satin, flowered with gold, were seen under a chemise of transparent gauze, reaching to her slippers, richly embroidered; a vést of pale blue satin, edged with gold, sat close to her shape, which an under robe of striped silver muslin, full and flowing, displayed to great advantage; a netted veil of crimson silk, flowered with silver, fell carelessly over her long braided hair, combed smooth and divided from the forehead, where a cluster of jewels was fastened by strings of seed pearls; her ear-rings were large and handsome; that in her nose, according to our idea of ornament, less becoming. The Asiatic ladies are extremely fond of the nose jewel, and it is mentioned among the Jewish trinkets in the Old Testament; a necklace, in intermingled rows of pearl and gold, covered her bosom; and several strings of large pearls were suspended from an embroidered girdle, set with diamonds; bracelets of gold and coral reached from her wrist to the elbow; golden chains encircled her ancles, and all her toes and fingers were adorned with valuable rings. Like most of the Oriental females, of all religions, her eyes were tinged by a black circle, formed with the powder of antimony, which produces a refreshing coolness, gives the eye additional, lustre, and is thought to be a general improvement to Asiatic beauty. -Forbes's Oriental Memoirs.

splendour that fashion and affluence can bestow, previous to our departure for Weymouth or Cheltenham, it is as yet undetermined which; could I racket through all the summer amidst balls, routs, and concerts, in the elegant way I do at present, I would be content to remain here the whole summer; but that the laws of fashion forbid; for this lively scene is reckoned now too near London to make it an entire sum mer residence for those who compose the haut ton.

You read in the papers, no doubt, the wedding of the dashing Adelaide Worthington with the Hon. Frederic Cleveland: it is with this pair that Fitzosborn and myself, at their earnest intreaties, consented to be inmates during their short stay here. We have not the awkward embarrassment of not knowing what to do with ourselves, or how to behave before a pair of turtles just caught in the conjugal net; they are both so completely fashionable, that I am sure they would not be heard to say a tender thing to each other for worlds: the beaux still continue to flutter about Adelaide, and Cleveland is as fond as ever of his dogs and horses; he is a modern charioteer, a great encourager of pugilism, and the delicate bride has lately affected to be robust; swallows at her breakfast anchovy toasts, and holds the pinion of a cold fowl` in her fingers, while she picks it with her ivory teeth: she endeavours to be thought a good judge of a horse, but by some of her misplaced remarks, obtains a boisterous langh from her husband, who has most admirable skill in horseflesh.

Alas! my dear Lucy, I do not seem now to have laid up much store of prudence from my dear parent's last awakening admonition, in her kind letter. Lady Worthington, with some little alteration, repeated it to her niece Adelaide, when she parted from her. "Lose not," said that excellent woman, "lose not your hours, my dear Adelaide, in fashionable follies: do not act like too many votaries of dissipation, as if youth and life were eternal."

blood horses, and he is changing them con- determined her to be married in white.

|| In vain Lady Worthington urged the cause of our home manufacturers: "Quiz me none of your formality," politely answered Cleveland; “what great harm can my wife's wedding-dress do to the clumsy weavers?"—Adelaide's transparent bonnet was too large for her delicate little features, and it did not become her; but it was fa

||

tinually; he will be a kind husbaud I hope; he loved her next to a horse-the best of any creature in the world; and his vices and follies do not lead him to a plurality of women: he is nine years older than Adelaide; it is time he began to reform, but I fear he never will. Already they have engaged, for the winter, two separate boxes at the Opera: what a fashionable; it was of fine French blond, shionable pair! But I must give you an account of how five mornings out of seven are commonly employed. At half-past one in the afternoon we go to breakfast, when a very fashionable milliner, from London, sends one of her assistants, and in a corner, a stand, bought on purpose, is placed, on which is hung bonnets and caps of various patterns and colours. Adelaide, then, with the whip her husband uses in riding, strikes off those that she does not like, and out of twenty, there perhaps only remain two or three which she rises and tries on, finds them delicious, and gives an immense price for what she seldom wears above once: a box of ribbands is next opened, out of which she takes what she likes, piece by piece, without even asking the price: then come the feathers, flowers, and lace veils she takes them almost all, has enough for ten months at least, and desires the bills may be sent in. It is not an unusual thing for her to throw down her Cachemire shawl on the ground for her little dog, or, perhaps, one of the pointers belonging to her lord and master, to repose on, while she passes about two hours in reading some new romance, of which, if you ask her, she has forgot even the title; and as to the harp, which she once struck with such brilliant execution, she scarce ever touches it, unless at her private concerts; which, Heaven knows, are public enough, for they are a perfect crowd. But I know you are eager to learn how we were attired on the wedding-day: we were dreadfully troubled to make the bride-elect attend to reason; it was so horrid vulgar to be dressed in white at a wedding; for her part, she would like to be married in a printed calico, and her hair in papers: at length, the bridegroom was resolved every part of her dress should be French; this appeased her, and a gown of the finest Brussels lace, to be worn over Chinese silk,

with a full plume of marabout feathers: she wore over her gown a Canezou body of white satin, richly ornamented with silk French trimming, and which gave a fine relief to the lace dress. I, as bride woman, was dressed in a fine Bengal muslin, with stripes of lace let in, a broad lace flounce, and a profusion of trimming of the same costly material; a lace scarf and a white crape bonnet, adorned with a wreath of fullblown white roses, all from Mrs. Bell's. The lovely and gentle Miss Worthington was habited in an Oriental robe of white spotted crape, her dark hair shaded by a fine net bonnet, with a cordon of small white roses at the edge, and a small plume of white ostrich feathers. Fitzosborn was neatly dressed in a coat of a beautiful sage colour, with white waistcoat, &c. silk stockings, and was every where taken for the bridegroom; for he, happy man, was habited in an American drab coloured coat, with large and loose white trowsers. On our return home, the bride mounted a celestial blue sarsuet pelisse, under sprigged muslin, and put on an immense Leghorn bonnet, so that her little face was entirely lost; they then set off in a barouche drawn by four beautiful roans to an old familyseat belonging to the Clevelands. Here, in one week, the pensive Adelaide was ennuyéé a la mort; though her mother and cousin were delighted with the rural scene, and the society around. The fashionable pair, however, both languished for the scenes of notoriety, and proposed a short sojournment here, till they should visit the more distant watering-places: and here, Adelaide positively declared, we must ac company her, and then that we would depart together for Weymouth, perhaps; in which vicinity her dear aunt, Lady Worthington, is gone on a visit for the summer, with her amiable daughter.

Our bridal dresses were of too great a

you

sameness to give you an idea of general || dered muslin gowns in colours, that fashion. White gowns, muslin or cambric, || speak of, are already getting vulgar; do are universal this season. A few gipsy hats have appeared, but they do not take much; the large bonnets still retaining || their pre-eminence. I am sorry mamma thinks the Highland cap I sent her too young for her; she is mistaken; they are worn by all ages, except those who have attained that of our dear grandmother; and very young ladies do not wear the Scotch cap in town. Do not wear your transparent bonnet for morning walks, unless it is to pay a morning visit of ceremony. Shorten your petticoats again, and display your pretty ancle; and let your flounces be laid in full plaits. The bor

not think of buying one. My cousin Pelham, called on me in a frightful black straw hat, and says my brother Thomas has got just such another: tell Tom, if he wishes to be regarded any thing above the veriest country bumpkin in the north, to throw it away directly, let the weather be what it will; better have the headache than seek coolness at the risk of the loss of fashion. I know he and you will excuse this badinage; for, believe me, I am possessed of all the Gothic principles of true affection, and for none more is that affection felt, than it is for you by your sister,

MONTHLY MISCELLANY;

MARIA.

INCLUDING VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

THE THEATRES.

HAYMARKET THEATRE.

The Merchant of Venice has been performed at this Theatre, for the purpose of introducing Mr. Warde, in Shylock. His scene with Tubal was well executed, and he exhibited powers which require only to be duly disciplined by longer experience to render him an excellent actor: his conception of many parts of the character was original.

ENGLISH OPERA.

The Deserter of Naples has been per formed here. Miss Kelly's Louisa has all the energy and feeling which this admirable actress possesses in so eminent a degree, and exercises upon all occasions, when she is presented with an opportunity.

FRENCH THEATRICALS.

THEATRE ROYAL DE L'ODEON.-Sketch of The Glinet Family; or, The Commencement of the Ligue; a comedy in five acts:The scene of this piece is laid at Melun, in the year 1576, a fatal year to France, when that impious ligue took place, when, under cover of the edict of peace, and that toleration granted to the worship of the Calvinists, France beheld a haughty family invested with papal colours, apported by the gold of Spain, and armed with No. 113.-Vol. XVIII.

the thunders of the Vatican, propose to the misled people of France a sacrilegions association against the royal family, to force the King himself to abolish his own laws, and sign his consent ruin and disgrace. At this period the French, to what would inevitably bring down upon him to a man, took either the part of the Guises or declared against them; sone, actuated by their secret attachment to the new doctrines, others, by their zeal for the ancient faith. These last were called Liguers, and they succeeded for some time in deceiving others, till Henry, indignant at his debasement, would no longer allow his name to serve as a rallying mark and a rampart to his enemies. He committed a crime to get rid of the Princes of Lorain, and joined the King of death scarce gave him time to transmit to him. Navarre to regain a crown that his prematare

When the action of the piece hegins, the ligne

is not supposed to be formed; a Spanish agent, named Paghera, has introduced himself at Melun, where be has won the confidence of the family of Glinet, which hospitably receives bim. This family is composed of three brothers; Charles, the master of the house, a physician, a sensible man, attached to the good cause, but indulgent towards those who are of a contrary opinion; Arthur, who, in fact, thinks like his brother Charles, but who differs from him by the exaltation of his ideas, and bis severity against all who are averse to the good cause; lastly, Egidius, the sheriff of the district, a mere weathercock, always on the strongest side, and at that moment devoted to Mayenne, whose party has the advantage at Melun. Madame Bertha, the wife of Charles Glinet, exacting with hauteur that every one should think as she does, in faM