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old man's anecdotes, and daylight appeared sooner than we had expected it. He pointed to a village at about two miles' distance, and advised us to remain there for the day; we rewarded him with a couple of crowns, and parted from him. We proceeded to the village, found an inn, breakfasted, and retired to bed, directing that we should be called for dinner at four in the afternoon. We rose refreshed; my ankle seemed in better condition than could have been expected after so great exertions: we were now about forty miles from Verdun; our dinner was clean and comfortable. It was Sunday, and therefore an inquisitive day; peasants, indulging in their bottles of twopenny wine, were free to enter every room. We passed for students returning to their homes at Colmar. Dances around the tree of Liberty were started; the day was fine; and had it not been for my sprained foot, I should gladly have joined the merrymakers. We passed a most agreeable evening, and at eight o'clock we bade those hospitable villagers good-night. The moon was near the full, and shone with brilliance. Some of the peasants accompanied us on the way, and directed our notice to the house of Jeanne d'Arc, a miserable hovel, kept in repair by an order of the commune.

The roads, as we proceeded, lay chiefly through extensive forests. There is an awful charm in gloomy tracts overhung with trees, with moonlight shining at intervals through the avenues.

It was

here that we first heard the dreadful howling of the wolf, answered by more distant howlings; at times he was close to us and rustled through the brushwood. The screech - owl would join the chorus; then for a few minutes all would be silent. The doctor and I trudged on, now and again whistling some old capstan song. By two in the morning we reached Vezelise, a dismal and dirty town, some nineteen miles from the village whence we had started. During nearly an hour we sought and failed to find an egress; we seemed to be entangled in a labyrinth; we made three rounds, and each time found ourselves in the end at the market-place. Could it be that we were bewitched? The moon had gone down, and the atmosphere was now dense with fog. At length striking down a narrow lane, we emerged upon a road beyond the town. We could not hope to reach Charmes before daylight, but in the expectation of finding some village inn we pressed forward.

The fog grew yet heavier, and settled down on us like rain; our feet were much swollen; a weight hung upon our eyelids, and it was with difficulty we kept them open. Such gaiety as we had possessed now wholly forsook us; we walked silently, almost in a stupor. I may say with truth that I dreamed as I moved along.

We seated ourselves at the foot of a great tree, and in a minute were fast asleep. The doctor was the first to wake;

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he roused me, and represented to me the danger of sleeping in so wetting a fog. We made several efforts to rise, but our limbs refused their service; we rubbed them with brandy, and once more got under weigh, proceeding very slowly, each supporting the other. Day was at its dawn; a cock crowed; and presently we entered a village, found an auberge, enjoyed the comfort of warm wine and toast, and leaving orders that we should be called at four in the afternoon, retired to bed. We had marched in all some thirty miles.

We woke refreshed, and found our clothes dry, with the fragrance of a turf-fire. A dinner


of capon, a brace of partridges, ham, and excellent wine prepared us to set forth at seven o'clock with renewed vigour. Two hours later we passed through the town of Charmes, crossed the bridge over the Mozelle, and pursued our route towards Rembervillier. night was beautiful with moonlight, even amid the forest through which ran the road. Before entering the town at dawn we hired for a few sous a peasant who conducted us to a small inn beyond its environs. Here everything was changed as if by magic; houses, inhabitants, manner of living, language were other than what they had been on the previous day. The women wore black petticoats and red stockings; the speech was German, with a twang in it like that of а Cornish miner; potatoes, washed down with sour milk, formed the common breakfast


of workmen and servants. were accommodated with coffee and a cold fowl; but you might eat your meal or let it alone; there was an end to all attention and politeness.

Having paid a reasonable bill, we began our march in the daytime-a venturesome attempt; but we encountered few people on the road. The country, like the people, was wholly changed. The forests were no longer of oak and beech, but of fir; hills rose to mountains; and navigable rivers were transformed into swift streams and waterfalls. We rested at a village, and steeped our swollen feet in salt-and-water. At seven we started for St Diey in a small covered cart hired for 5 francs. The weather was fine, and again the moon shone clear. Having passed the town, we began our march in high spirits, and at midnight were at the celebrated mountain of the Vosges chainBonhomme. Below the climbing road lay a valley, with scattered cottages built in the Swiss style, and a stream descending in successive. leaps over huge rocks. We sat and viewed the moonlit scene, musing on the lot of the inhabitants, which would have been. so wholly peaceful but for the unbounded ambition of a tyrant.

It was nearly daylight when we reached the summit after a five hours' ascent. On the side which now came into view we saw the village of Bonhomme; and there we rested until three in the afternoon. Our host called our attention to a curi

ous Roman tower at the back of his house-octagon in shape, about forty paces in diameter, and in good preservation. Thither we had our dinner carried, and kept the landlord in our company that he might tattle only to ourselves. From From the summit of the tower we saw the Rhine-a magnificent prospect with many scattered towns and villages. About thirty miles separated us from the river, which it was our hope to cross next morning. next morning. At seven we set forth, and four hours later found ourselves among the outworks of a fortified town, which we were too prudent to enter. To avoid it we crossed, with clothes on our heads, a river, small but deep, rapid, and numbing cold. It was mortifying to come, within half an hour, upon another town, which lay directly in our way. The gate was open, and we could see the gate on the farther side also open; we advanced cautiously, perceived in the watch-box a man sound asleep, and passed through without difficulty. A third town about five miles onward was passed with no less success, and now there lay before us as far as the Rhine a level open road, towards which we advanced in high spirits: it seemed to us that already we were out of the reach of our pursuers.

We halted at a small cottage on the banks of the Rhine, the home of a fisherman. The wife, who spoke French, informed us that the passage-house was two miles farther down the river, where were stationed custom

house officers and a brigade of soldiers to examine strangers and passports. Her husband, she said, had just gone to Markolsheim to sell his fish. We begged her to give us what she could for breakfast; rye-bread, milk, fresh eggs were placed before us. During the repast we inquired at what time her husband would return, and whether, to save us the trouble of a walk to the passage-house, he would put us across the river. She answered that her husband would run the risk of imprisonment if it were known that he conveyed strangers into Germany.

In a few minutes a fine-looking lad of about fourteen years of age, with a paddle in his hand, entered. He had just

returned in his canoe from the other side. He showed his mother a silver watch which he

had purchased from a friend for 15s.-five paid down, the rest to remain due for six months. I asked him whether he would ferry us over, and have two crowns to pay for his watch, with two more to be divided between his mother and himself. The bargain was soon made; he went to see that the coast was clear, quickly returned, and conducted us, at a run, about a quarter of a mile to his boat. It was a canoe formed of three planks: he made us lie down, as well to keep the boat steady as to avoid observation.

Using his paddle with great dexterity, he soon had us among islands which concealed us from the French side of the river; but so rapid was the stream that we were nearly an

hour in crossing. We landed at a small village called Sasbach, and paid the little fellow; he led us to an inn, but would not enter with us. We were extremely tired, having walked all night and part of the morning, and were now glad to go to bed. In the evening of the following day we reached Freiburg; police-officers and soldiers stood at the gates, but we carried no bundles of a size to excite suspicion, and passed into the town unquestioned. We were seated at supper in the Golden Lion, an excellent inn, when a little inquisitive fellow entered the room, and, speaking in French, proceeded to assail every person at the table with his impertinent inquiries. The tormentor, who had fastened upon the doctor and myself with special zest, left us for a few minutes and returned with a newspaper in his hand; he begged us to peruse a short paragraph, and to our alarm we saw our own

names, with an account of our evasion from Verdun. We affected to take no notice of what concerned us so much, and begged to know to which paragraph he had referred; he pointed it out a second time. "What!" said I, "is that all? I had hoped for news of our army in Prussia. Keep your nonsense to yourself, and be off!" He stared at us and withdrew. Since quitting Verdun we had not felt so much uneasiness. That night we were in a hired post-chaise on our way to Neustadt. As we entered the town we were stopped by the guard, who required to know our names, our occupation, whence we came, whither we purposed to go. We answered promptly: we were merchants from Paris, going to Munich, on affairs of commerce. The "Pass on was never more welcome, and in a few minutes we were taking our ease at our inn.

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From Neustadt to Donaueschingen, and thence onwards to Ulm, we hastened by postchaise. During the day that preceded our arrival at Ulm it seemed as if something of evil omen threatened us. We entered the town on foot, and to the usual questions at the gates returned the usual answers. While we were breakfasting at the inn there entered a man, who proved to be skipper of the Vienna packet. He asked if we were going with him, for in two hours he must start. This fell



in perfectly with our plans; we rejoiced to start so soon, and the price, 36 florins, not including food, was arranged. gentleman, very courteous in manner, was seated at the breakfast - table. Seeing our preparations for departure, he inquired whether we had been to the police-office, for otherwise it was not permitted us to embark. We answered that we had not yet gone through the required forms. "I have the honour," he said, "to be the chief of police, and I can save 3 P

you the trouble of going; allow me to viser your passports now.' His words fell like a thunderbolt, at the moment when we were exulting in our escape. Seeing us hesitate, he went on "I perceive, gentlemen, that you are embarrassed by my offer, and that your appearance shows you to be strangers who would travel incognito; I venture to guess that you are unprovided with passports. It is unfortunately my duty to place you under arrest till you show who and what you are." We told him we came last from Strasburg, that we had left our homes on an excursion to see Vienna, and that we had been assured that passports were not required from Frenchmen out of France, especially when travelling through those provinces of Germany which were her allies. "I am truly sorry to say," he replied, "that I must do my duty by immediately placing you under arrest.'

He rang the bell, and two police officers in attendance entered they escorted us into another apartment, and seized our papers before we had an opportunity to destroy them. For about an hour we remained under guard. At length the commissary appeared. "Gentlemen," said he, "by your charts

of the departments and your papers I find you are Englishmen who have deserted from some depot in France; by the route you have traced with pencil lines it appears that you are from Verdun. Here you must remain until I receive orders from my Government as to how you are to be disposed of. Two guards will wait in your apartment; nothing for your comfort shall be spared; the inn will supply you with everything you need; but if I find you tampering with the guards or servants, your treatment will be the most rigorous you have yet experienced."

We could only submit to our fate. The prospect of confinement in that hell upon earth, the souterrains of Bitche, handcuffs, chains, black bread, penury, and vermin were present to our excited imagination. Meanwhile we were authorised to call for whatever we pleased, and the Bavarian Government should pay the score. We feasted like nabobs; the most costly dishes, the choicest wines were ordered; champagne, hock, and liqueurs were offered to any one who visited us. We remained here ten days; then came the order to send us to Strasburg, and there hand us over to the French authorities.


The morning of our departure from Ulm arrived. The commissary expressed his deep regret for having to perform so painful, yet so imperious, a

duty, and assured us that our expenses as far as Strasburg would be defrayed by the guards. We expected to march the whole way on foot, and were

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